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Hat Hints One of the most frequently asked questions about hats is “what style of hat should I wear to suit my face”? The golden rule is to wear a hat that you feel comfortable and confident in, a style that suits the occasion. If you have a small face it is best not to wear a hat with a very large crown and brim If you have a large face, do not wear a crown and brim that hugs your face, these will emphasize your features. People who wear glasses often choose hats with swept-up brims, as this takes the attention away from the glasses and does not come into contact with them as much as a down-turned brim would. (You've heard of etiquette....) 1. Never touch someone's hat. Don't do it. Not the hat. The only person who'd touch a woman's hat is someone who doesn't wear hats. 2. Admire hats from a distance. There's no excuse for knocking someone's hat, even by accident. Be careful if you're sitting behind a Hat Queen. 3. Don't get too close when two Hat Ladies hug. Both have to tilt their head all the way to the side, in opposite directions, and leave space in between. 4. Don't ask to borrow someone's hat. (Some ladies say they'd lend their children before they'd lend their hats. They know their children know their way home, but their hats might not)! 5. Don't get jealous. Women who love hats are happy to see a hat that looks good on someone else. Women who wear hats know who they are. 6. Develop a hattitude in order to wear your hat well. Enjoy the fact that men always help a lady in a hat first. - Never pick up a hat by the crown. Doing so crushes the crown and can cause it to become misshapen. - Never wear your hat unprotected in inclement weather. Oval: You can wear most any hat shape. However, hats with large brims are the most flattering. If you're short or petite, narrow or proportioned brims look best. Wear them straight across the brow or across your hairline. Round: Your face needs a more square-shaped crown with an asymmetrical brim. Set the brim at an angle to add length to your face. The crown should not be narrower than your face unless it is balanced by the trim. Avoid hats with rounded crowns. Square: Narrow your face with an asymmetrical brim and a stunning crown. Slant the brim or simply tilt your hat to soften square edges. Experiment with adding earrings. Oblong: You will be happiest with a full brim. Look for trim that lifts the eye or a brim that sweeps the sides or the back. Avoid tall, narrow shapes. Your hat should bring balance to your shoulders and the rest of your body. Triangular: Emphasize your eyes and draw focus away from your strong jaw line. Find a hat with a short, uneven brim and a lofty crown. You can also wear a rolled or upswept brim, but wear it straight across the brow or across the hairline. Steer clear of hats with pointed crowns or sharp angles. Heart-Shaped: You'll want to draw attention upwards. Wear a small hat high on your head or something with eye-catching trim.. Avoid large, heavy shapes. All of these guidelines have a logical basis; you're selecting a hat with a shape other than your facial shape. In ALL cases, the crown should NEVER be narrower than your cheekbones! Height of Lady: The shorter a woman, the narrower her hat brim should be. A short woman wearing a broad-brimmed hat can look like a mushroom. Tall women look better with flatter crowns, while a higher crown can make a short woman appear taller. Height of Hat: The height of a hat should be proportionate to the body; its width shouldn't be wider than the shoulders...unless it's an Easter bonnet:>) Don't forget to take your overall physique into account: A tall/big woman should wear a wide brim, since a small brim might make her look larger. A tiny woman should wear a narrow, upturned brim, or no brim at all, to get the illusion of height. THE GOLDEN RULE, WHICH SUPERCEDES ALL THE RULES ABOVE, IS TO WEAR A HAT YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE AND CONFIDENT IN, IN A STYLE WHICH SUITS THE OCCASION. IF YOU FEEL YOU LOOK GOOD WEARING A CERTAIN HAT, THEN YOU PROBABLY DO! Hair: There is no feature more important than your hair when it comes to hat wearing. Your hat should compliment, not compete, with your hair. While you should never be talked into hiding your hair under your hat, give serious consideration to minimizing your hair vs your hat. After all, why bother to wear a hat if you want to emphasize your hair-style? Let the shape of your hat determine whether or not, or how much, to let your hair show. Then follow these guidelines: 1. Hats worn all day solve problems; they don't create them (i.e. hat hair). Think about it ladies: your hair doesn't look the same ("perfect") from dawn to dusk. If you're wearing a hat (and don't take it off 'til you get home), you will look "perfect" from dawn to dusk! 2. If you're still concerned about "hat hair," here are two solutions: If your hair is long enough, clip it up with a barrette or spring clip, then put on your hat. When you take off your hat, release the clip. Voila! There is still fullness in your hair. If your hair is shorter, it can be lifted with hair spray or gel. 3. Hair tucked behind your ears and/or put up into the hat will look the most flattering. "Clean" your hair off your face. 4. Hair longer than chin length should be styled into a chignon or simple knot at the nape of the neck. 5. Hair that is a "fringe" (e.g. bangs, "sideburns") can be seen if you choose a hat you can wear across your hairline or hats with a short back brim. But do not let the bangs conflict with the design of the hat. 6. The SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT tip regarding hair and hats is: You should all have an image of what that means: your hat should not be placed in the middle of your head so that only the underside of the hat is seen. Pull it down! 7. When the weather outside is frightful, you can still look delightful by simply selecting hats that are stylish as well as practical. Wear your hat all day long and enjoy the compliments. Better yet, start a fashion trend that lasts all year long. Glasses: Wearing glasses with hats. 1. Wear your hat with the brim turned up. 2. Choose brims that swoop up on one side as well as asymmetrical shapes. 3. Avoid hats that just sit there! The female’s average head size is 22 ½” To measure your head properly, start from the fullest part of the back of the head around to slightly above your ears ending at an inch above your eyebrow, while not pulling the tape to tight. This should give you your proper hat size. cm..........inches.........universal.......us/can 53..........20 7/8..........X-small.............6 1/2 54..........21 1/4..........small................6 3/4 55..........22 1/8..........medium.............7 57..........22 1/2..........medium.............7 1/8 58..........22 7/8..........med/large..........7 1/4 59..........23 1/4..........large................7 3/8 60..........23 3/4..........large................7 1/2 61..........24 1/4..........x-large.............7 5/8 If you keep touching your hat and pushing it up out of your forehead and off your ears or if it blows off with the slightest breeze, it does not fit properly! Don't despair: there are some logical, practical, inexpensive solutions: Use safety pins (one or two will do) on the inside ribbon of the crown to tighten the fit; that is where the expression "pinhead" came from. Purchase weather stripping or Dr. Scholl's pads and place them inside the crown. Go to a store that carries VCR's. Find the pads used under them so they don't scratch tables, etc. These self-adhesive pads are thick and firm enough without being hurtful to the head. Get the long narrow shape, about 2 inches long, approximately 10 per package. DON'T get the dots. If you go to Wal-Mart, these strips will be found in the hardware section, near the picture hangers and other pads used to keep items from scratching surfaces. Leave your hat on for at least 5 minutes: If you feel pressure, it is too small. If it slips or shifts when you turn your head side to side, it is too large. If you don't jam your hat against your scalp, it won't flatten your hair. A hat should have at least a 4" brim to shade your eyes as well as your skin. Follow this rule of thumb: If you can slide an index finger between your head and the hat, it fits correctly. Some of us are better at finding things than making them. If you are one of those talented ladies who can create your own original designs from a basic hat, this section's for you! There are few crises that can't be completely forgotten, at least for a little while, while you're trimming a hat. Working with different types of hats: Natural straw hats: tend to be fairly stiff and tend to shed. They don't easily reshape. Mixed fiber hats: have more "give" in the crown, allowing for changing the position of the brim and packing Finding the right trim: 1. Watch for items that might look interesting on a hat, e.g. Christmas garland, broaches, belt buckles, feathers 2. Utilize all types of hats as your base, e.g. men's hats 3. Work with unusual materials, e.g. floral wire to hold pieces of material; vials to fill with fresh flowers; oil paint to draw designs; spray paint to change the color of the hat entirely; paper towel rolls to hold hat while decorating it 4. Know where to go for the best buy, e.g. thrift shops, as well as the more upscale suppliers 5. Pluck a few silk flowers from those bouquets for the cemetery 6. Take a smaller hat and fit it over the crown of another. Two hats can be better than one! 7. Choose a theme to make a memorable hat, e.g. 1st of July; Kentucky Derby 8. Stiffen flowers by: making a mix of white glue (the kind used for woodworking) and water (one teaspoon glue to a little bit of water). Don't thin it out too much; generously paint it on to the petals and let dry OR use clear matte finish Krylon (available at art stores, craft centers, and paint departments) REMEMBER - A little ingenuity, a glue gun, and a mirror go a long way in stretching the pocketbook and increasing the number of hats in your closet, without sacrificing style. In most cases, it enhances it. -Trimmings must be securely fastened with either a secret safety pin or two fixed from inside or simple basting with thread. -If your hat matches your shoes and purse and gloves, you are a HEAD of the rest. Being "coordinated" gives you the most bang for your buck. And you lucky, handy Ladies have the talent to get it. Invest in a good brim brush--one with dark bristles for dark colored hats and one with light colored bristles for light colored hats. Brush your hat(s) regularly to keep dust from settling into the fibers. Light colored hats should be brushed more often. Clean your brushes after each use -- you do not want to transfer fibers of one color hat to a hat of another color. To keep decorations on your hats clean and fresh: steam the hat over a pot of boiling water for a few seconds until trimmings soften. Smooth and hold in position until cool. To restore luster to straw hats: rub gently with sandpaper. Brush them regularly with a soft brim brush or whisk broom. A soft damp cloth can also be used to maintain straw To remove dirty marks from straw: gently wipe with a damp cloth. If this action does not succeed, then use dry cleaning fluid. Use sparingly. Be sure to test it first on a small piece of the hat that will not be seen. Apply the fluid with cotton wool. Do not over wet the area, since you could remove the varnish or dye. To remove liquid stains: Enlist the services of a professional hat cleaner To clean felt hats: - Fine sandpaper (or soft brush), then rub softly - "Gonzo" used for picking up pet hair - Dry cleaning fluid (e.g. "Renuzit" and "Energine") placed on a soft cloth with a short nap - Art gum eraser rubbed in a counter clock-wise motion to the grain of the brim - Fuller's earth used to clean away oily stains that are not of a liquid nature; use a plastic or rubber sponge to clean away the residue - Scout Hat Cleaner, purchased from a milliner To clean before packing: use a hat brush before packing it away in acid free tissue for the summer. Brush the hat carefully (in clockwise direction), following the nap. To prevent hats from wilting and protect from raindrops: buy inexpensive hats, then spray them with clear acrylic on both sides. Use the flat finish. To get the best cleaning economically: try "Dryel," a safe, convenient way to care for dry clean only items in your dryer! To get the best cleaning of all: take it to a professional hat cleaner and/or milliner. STAY AWAY FROM CLOTHES CLEANING ESTABLISHMENTS (many do NOT have the tools for cleaning and reblocking a hat). Take good care of them in the first place! Keep them out of direct sunlight; they'll fade. Do everything you can to keep them from being squashed or crumpled. Dented hat: Boil a kettle over a gas or electric range; do not use an electric kettle, since you need a constant supply of steam and must insure the kettle does not boil dry. When the kettle is steaming freely, turn down the heat just enough to keep steam coming out of the spout with a little force. Position the affected area over the jet of steam and allow it to penetrate the straw or felt, keep moving the hat around in order for the heat and steam to spread evenly in and around the material. Remove the hat from the steam after 20-30 seconds. Quickly push out the dent or rework the shape with the fingers, blow on the repaired patch to cool it, and the material will stiffen. Do not overdo the steaming as you can distort the hat, especially if you are working on a sharp edge or fine detail, try not to "overwork" any area and work in small stages. It is also possible to stiffen your hat by steaming the felt or straw thoroughly and allowing the hat to cool. The stiffener will soften when hot but re-bonds and hardens when cooled, this is due to the nature of the stiffening agent used in hat making. Velour: Use a stiff brush to restore nap while steaming; can even iron velour Straw hat (where texture isn't too stiff or too flimsy): Stuff crown with wet towels and let it set for a few hours, head down. Then flip hat over and fill brim with rolled up wet towels. Once again, let it sit for a few hours. Wrinkles are gone; brim is straightened; hat is like new. Damage to straw hats can be ironed out successfully using an iron set to #3 (a high setting will burn the straw), do not allow the iron to stay in one area for too long; keep it moving over the damaged area. If it's a flat brim, lay the hat on an ironing board, if the area. Sometimes the repair will be easy and will only require a few passes with the iron, but with more difficult repairs it will be necessary to use the iron to apply heat and steam, then using the fingers, quickly manipulate the straw into shape while the material is still hot. BENT BRIMS: Bend brim wires back into shape and stitch down loose trims as soon as damage is noticed. Felt Hats: Do not iron felt hats. Use steam only to effect a repair on felt hats. Wet hat: Let it dry naturally, use a "hat retainer" to prevent shrinkage in the head band area. Veil that has become crushed: Hold over teapot Silk flowers that have been mashed: Fluff, then apply hair spray to hold the shape Sure wish we could hang our hats as you would hang your purses! Since it's not usually feasible... here are some tips on hanging them INSIDE...starting with THE single most important one: NEVER PLACE YOUR HAT ON ITS BRIM! (Either use a hat stand or place it upside down on a shelf and stuff the crown with tissue paper to hold its shape) Always store your hat in a dry, cool place. Always store unused hats with crowns supported, preferably placed in a hat box and put in a warm dry place, stuff the crown with tissue paper, put the hat into a plastic bag and store on the top of a wardrobe. Do not stack one hat on top of the other. Doing so can cause the hat's shape to be distorted. It will definitely crush the trim. For long storage periods, place hat in hat box (cardboard or cloth covered). For temporary storage, use a hat stand. Either place brimmed hats upside down or put tissue paper inside the crown of the hat. Hats with upturned or pancake-flat brims may be stored flat, right side up Hats with down-turned, dipped or sloped brims are best stored "floating" on a ball of tissue lightly stuffed into the crown Some square-crowned (flat top) hats may be stored upside down. Store hats so that there is not undue pressure on any delicate trimmings; use a hat stand, if there are elaborate decorations or feathers which stick up above the crown Remember: Your goal is to keep the weight of the hat off the brim. There are a variety of ways, based on the number of hats you own and your pocketbook. Hat boxes: They protect a hat from crowding, dust, dust mites, light, moisture, and heat. You may wish to add a sachet of perfumed mothballs Hat stands: Either buy a decorative one or save the stands that hold paper towels. Be sure to protect your hat from strong light and dust often with a soft brush Big clear (transparent) containers (from Walmart); as opposed to cardboard, so they'll block out moisture If you just want hats for sightseeing, invest in the crushable variety! If you have special hats that go with special ensembles for special events where you're headed, fill the crown with tissue paper and put it in a plastic bag. Place it top side up in the middle of your suitcase. Surround brim with tissue paper or rolled up underwear and socks. |
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