A Bike Lift Table Simplifies Many Tasks

Oil Filter Alternatives

by Wiliferd Lair

The below listed oil filters have been suggested for the GL1800. MCN tested many filters and came to the conclusion that the one that tested best was the Wal-mart SuperTech ST6607. The ST7317 is the same basic filter but is a longer one. These filters are the least costly but have been tested to be superior to other brands including Honda's own brand. Of course, as we all know, Honda doesn't make filters but sells filters relabled as Honda made by another company. I don't know which company currently has the contract for Honda filters.

I choose to use the ST7317 on my 1800. My choice is based on the fact that the additional length would seem to logically give it a little more filtering material. It certainly makes it a little easier to change. It does not interfere with the Tulsa Belly Pan.

Gold Wing Oil Filters (origin of list is unknown but thought to be from one of the 1800 boards on the Internet).

Bosch 3300

NAPA Gold 1385 or 1365

Purolator L14622

AC Delco PF1237

STP S-02876

Fram PH 6607

Wal Mart SuperTech ST6607 Best

Wal Mart Super Tech ST7317

Penske PN6607

If you didn't find the brand you were looking for, you might try:

http://www.gwrra-ohh2.org/pdf/oil%20filter%20cross%20reference.pdf

Each rider will have to choose their own preference based on their comfort level. Some riders feel strongly about continuing to use only Honda filters. It is not the intent of this article to convince them otherwise.

Oil Selection

by Wiliferd Lair

Reference article by Stu Oltman, Wing World, November 2005, pp. 59-65.

There is considerable debate about the best brand, viscosity, and even type of oil to use in the motorcycle. Standards have changed in the industry. API classification now should be SL or the latest SM standard. The older standards of SE, SF, SG and SH are now obsolete. Any oil that meets a later standard also meets all previous (lower) standards.

There continues to be a strong debate as whether motorcycle specific oil is better for the motorcycle than automobile oils. Many motorcycle specific oils have no more than broad claims made in support of their high price. The Japan Automobile Standards Organization (JASO) is the certification standard for motorcycle oils. JASO 4T is the standard for a motorcycle specific oil. If this designation is not on the oil container as having JASO 4T classification, it becomes highly suspect as to whether it is actually motorcycle specific oil or just overpriced and repackaged automobile oil with clever ad writting.

Using Honda's own recommendations for oil for the 1800, use a 10w40 oil meeting the API classification of SG or higher. Honda's standards were probably written prior to the newer classifications. Use API classification SL or SM oil and it will more than meet the lower SG obsolete standard. Do not use an energy conserving oil as specified within the API Classification "doughnut" on the label due to potential clutch slippage.

Oils of heavier consistency than 10w30 are not required to have additives to reduce friction which might cause clutch slippage. Most all motorcycle manufacturers recommend an oil viscosity of heavier than 10w30 as the standard oil for their products. Honda's oil recommendations for the GL1800 are backwards compatible to all other Goldwings.

Again, each rider will have to make their own decisions regarding what they are comfortable putting in their bikes. Many riders, including myself, choose to use synthetic oil which is not addressed in this tip. The classifications also apply to the synthetic oil.

Changing Headlight Bulbs

by Wiliferd Lair

The low beam headlight bulbs seem to need replacement on a regular basis on the 1800. The 1800 uses an H7 55watt bulb available at most auto parts stores. It will run in the neighborhood of $8. This is covered by the warranty if you choose to go that route.

Installing the bulb is much easier than the repair manual lists. You do not need to remove any tupperware.

First, and very important, is to put the bike on the center stand. This makes it much easier to deal with the metal clip that holds the bulb in. Turn the handlebars to full lock in the direction of the bulb to be replaced.

The bulb is accessible by reaching into the fairing from the top next to the handlebars. Find the plug over the bulb. The plug pulls straight back to remove. Just let it hang. The back of the headlight has a rubber boot covering each light. The boot has a tab at the top and bottom and a hole in the middle which surrounds the bulb adapter. Remove the boot by pulling straight back on the tabs one at a time. Set the boot aside for now. With your fingertip feel for the metal clip that holds the bulb in place. It has a loop in it. Push the loop in slightly and down. You should feel it release. The clip remains attached on one side. It is hinged. Turn it away from the bulb. This frees the bulb so it is easily removed. It should be loose at this point. Once you get the bulb out there is an adapter on the bulb which must be removed. It simply unplugs.

Do not touch the new bulb with the human skin. Oils on the skin will shorten the life of the bulb which burns very hot. Either use a clean shop towell or better use plastic gloves such as medical gloves. Put the adapter on the bulb. Install the bulb being careful to get it aligned for proper seating. Be sure the clip is still out of the way (that's why the bike is on the center stand). Once inserted and seated place the clip back in place. Push the loop on the clip in and slightly up. You can feel it seat in the catch. Replace the boot being sure to get the hole in the boot over the bulb adapter. You should feel two prongs on the back of the bulb when the boot is properly aligned. The boot should easily slide back in place. Now plug the wiring back up to the back of the bulb.

Start the bike and admire your work. It is at this point that you realize you spent more time reading the directions than it took to change the bulb.

Follow Up Report by Steve Short,CD

While on the 48 plus ride one of the low beams burned out on the Goldwing. These were replaced in January? with high output 55W european bulbs. I was doing a lot of night riding and had to quit early the night before because of heavy rain, fog, and could not see the nearly obliterated white lines on I-90 in Idaho. To make things worse one of the running lights was also dead. The PIAA lights worked too well, the glare was horrible. Note to self, PIAA to be used only in good weather. I tried glasses off, on, shield up, down. No relief. As my speed dropped to 45 mph I turned on the 4-ways as I wanted folks to know I was in distress.

Thanks to a Prime Trucking driver who slowed down and lead me to Walker, ID I made it safely to a hotel that night.

Now for the rest of the story, I made it to a dealer the next day to see if they could change both low beams. Thought that would be quicker than me doing it by the side of the road. Dealer will for 1.1 hours shop time plus over twenty dollars per bulb. I can find better places to spend $100.

Bought bulbs at a Wal-Mart and changed them. Thanks to the LCR maintenance page and Dr Lairs help with the first set that should not be a problem. If you believe that I have some lake front property for sale. I forgot the tab goes up on the first bulb. I will not share how long that took. Moral of the story. Learn how to replace your low beams. The money you save can be used for fuel. I since have calculated the european bulbs lasted over 500 hours. Their expected life was 420 so that was not so bad. If you are mechanically challenged like me ask for some help on the first change. Even I will assist you if you promise not to laugh at how long it takes me to do a five minute job.

Thanks