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Camping Gear EQUIPMENT Camping equipment varies widely in cost and quality. Sleeping bags, for instance, can be had for as little as $15, but the upper end can be as high as $600. A lot of gear has a similar range of quality and cost. Obviously Scouts normally find themselves somewhere in the middle ground. New Scouts should be cautious about large expenditures until they are sure that their interest will not wane. They should look for alternatives and be patient. A store-bought water bottle is not necessary when an empty soda bottle is free. A bedroll made from a sheet and blankets makes a suitable substitute for a sleeping bag. There is plenty of time to research and buy slowly. Boy Scouts range in age from 10 to 18, so new boys have as many as eight years to accumulate equipment. There will be lots of birthdays and other gift-giving events in that time. Also, remember that the Scouting way is for the boy to earn the money for his equipment. In Troop 396 boys may use money they have earned from fundraisers to buy gear. It is vital that every single piece of gear be marked with the Scout’s name. Metal items should be etched. Cloth must be marked with indelible ink. We all shop at essentially the same places so there is a remarkable similarity between items. Besides identifying the owner of lost equipment we sometimes must settle disputes about ownership and we have no way of doing so without some form of marking. The Troop has some equipment to lend. Many of the more expensive items, like backpacks and sleeping bags can also be rented. When a Scout is ready to buy, the leaders can offer advice on quality and selection. A list of equipment and some of that advice follows; but, again, new Scouts should not run out and buy it all. Look around the house first, and make appropriate substitutions. The camping section of the Boy Scout Handbook also has a list of equipment. Required Equipment These items are needed for every camping trip. Some of them are explained in greater detail later. Information about others can be found in the Camping and Hiking sections of the Scout Handbook. Items marked (SE) are part of the Scout Essentials and are required by National Council policy. · Sleeping bag or bedroll · Flashlight, spare bulb & spare batteries (SE) · Eating gear-knife, fork, spoon, plastic cup, plastic bowl · First aid kit (SE) · Water bottle-filled (SE) · Rain gear (SE) · Extra clothes, warm and preferably not cotton (SE) · Extra shoes · Two or three trash bags, 30 gallon or so · Lots of extra socks, not cotton · 50’ of strong cord · Pocketknife (SE) · Trail food-granola bars, Power Bars, gorp, PB crackers (SE) · Matches & fire starters (SE) · Whistle · Compass & map-compass with 2 degree increments & base plate (SE) · Sun protection-sunscreen, hat & sunglasses (SE) · Ground cloth
Tents No tent is required. The Troop has them and we would rather not have a Scout bring his own. This is for uniformity and to ensure everyone is familiar with setup. Sleeping Bags One will be needed eventually. In the meantime, the Troop has a few bags that may be borrowed or a blanket roll may be used. In fact, in warmer weather a blanket roll can be more comfortable because it offers versatility. Economical bags are fine for most activities and can be supplemented with blankets in cold weather. When the desire for a more high-end bag occurs (warmer for very cold weather, lighter for backpacking) they can be rented instead of purchased. When a scout does decide to buy, much research should be done. In general a 15-25 degree mummy style bag with nylon cover and synthetic fill is best; and the lighter it is, the better. A full-length draft tube that covers the zipper contributes much to comfort. For fill material look for names like Hallofil, Qualofil, or Polarguard. Down fill should be avoided because it requires more care than most boys will give . . . frankly, most adults, too. An optional accessory that will prolong the life of the sleeping bag is a “Dream Sack,” or “Sleep Sack.” These are cotton, fleece, or silk liners shaped like the bag. They can be used alone in warm weather or placed inside the sleeping bag whenever it is used. The Dream Sack gets dirty while the bag stays clean, meaning your expensive sleeping bag won’t have to be washed as often. They start at about $15.00. Sleeping Pads In any except summer weather sleeping pads are a must. They are lightweight, very inexpensive and make a big difference in sleeping comfort. More important than acting as a cushion, they insulate the body from the cold ground. Anyone who has shopped for a sleeping bag will note that bags have temperature ratings. Those ratings are based on the bag being on a pad. Pad prices start at $7-10 for closed-cell foam and “Ensolite,” or $35-45 for the foam filled air mattresses like “Therm-a-Rest.” Foam is cheaper and lighter; foam-air is more comfortable. Either is fine. Look for a pad that is at least 20” wide and around 72” long. Resist the urge to buy an air mattress that is not filled with foam, like the kind used in pools. They allow the cold to circulate under the body. Also avoid exercise mats and the like, which feel comfortable at first, but compress to an almost useless thickness over the course of night. They also readily soak up water. Flashlights The flashlight is not a place to save money. Everyone has used the dollar store flashlights that have to be shaken and banged to keep lit. This is very frustrating when you are trying to set up a tent in the dark, and many of the places we go are very dark. Any decent light is fine. The best are bright colored plastic, waterproof, use AA batteries, have a lanyard or means to attach a lanyard, and twist to turn on. These are reliable, hard to hurt, easy to use, and allow sharing of their nearly ubiquitous AA batteries with other gear. Unfortunately a light like that starts at about $15. Obviously the cost of the gear has to be based on a boy’s proclivity for losing things, but a lanyard made of a long piece of string attaching the light to the Scout’s belt loops will help him retain it. Spare batteries are always required, as is a spare bulb. A second, backup, flashlight is also a good idea. This is where the dollar store light would be useful; but, if possible, stick to one that uses AA batteries. A fairly inexpensive but useful accessory is a head strap, like the “Jak Strap,” that holds the light for hands-free operation. This is handy when pitching tents, walking trails, and making camp in the dark, but they are not required. Packs & Bags For summer camp and most of the monthly camping we do where the gear doesn’t have to be carried very far, the best way to pack is in a big bag with a big opening. Before packing it should be lined with a plastic garbage bag, even if the weather is clear. The bag should be large enough so there is plenty of extra space when it’s packed for departure because Scouts don’t always pack as efficiently for the return trip. Examples are an old duffle bag, a large grip bag, or a large gym bag. Simple plastic garbage bags can be used temporarily. Please avoid suitcases. There will definitely be at least one backpacking trip each year, normally in November. There may be other trips involving backpacking, too. A pack with a frame that transfers the weight to the hips will be needed for these trips. A frameless school pack won’t do because the entire load is borne on the wearer’s shoulders. Instructions for selecting and fitting a pack would fill pages. There are different frame styles and they must be sized to fit the user. Some are adjustable and can grow with the boy. Buying one requires careful study and consideration. In general an external frame pack with a capacity of at least 3,500 cubic inches, a padded waist belt, and padded shoulder straps is the best type for Scouts. The Troop has some packs to lend. They can also be rented, which is a good idea for many boys since they are used so little and cost so much. Clothing In general cotton should be avoided. When wet (think perspiration as well as rain) it conducts heat away from the body and it dries very slowly. The only cotton items experienced outdoorsmen carry are bandanas, possibly t-shirts in the summer, and sometimes underwear (not long underwear). Clothing fibers to look for dry quickly and provide insulation even when wet. Examples are wool, polyester, polypropylene, silk and nylon. Some trade names are Capilene, Polartec, Smart Wool, Silkskins, Thermax, Merino Wool, Coolmax, and Bergelene. Many blends exist, but cotton should not be one of the blended materials. For staying warm this applies to all clothing, but it is nowhere more important than in the selection of socks. Buy wool or acrylic. Do not wear cotton or cotton blend socks. When hiking a pair of sock liners will do much to reduce blisters. These are very thin, tight fitting socks that are worn under a pair of heavier socks, reducing friction between the sock and the foot.
Rain Gear Many people prefer ponchos because they can cover both the wearer and his pack, they are waterproof, and they may be used as a substitute for a ground cloth or serve as an emergency shelter. Ponchos are; however, more cumbersome when doing any type of kneeling-down task like cooking or setting up a tent. They also tend to get caught on branches. A rain jacket with a hood and a pair of rain pants is normally best. The quality should be such that the suit will not shred when it snags on something. PVC is probably the most common material in children’s rainwear and it is completely waterproof. The common yellow raincoat is normally PVC. Stepping up from there is coated nylon, then fabrics that are both waterproof and breathable. Vinyl should be avoided because it tends to self-destruct with only one use. Waterproof, breathable fabrics are much more comfortable because water can’t get in, but body heat and perspiration can get out. In simpler terms, it means you sweat less. That comfort comes with a much higher price, though. Expect to pay at least $50.00 for the jacket alone. If you want the big name, “Gore-Tex,” you’ll have to double that number. This is in contrast to $15.00 or so for PVC. Whatever kind of rain gear you buy, look for the word “waterproof.” Water resistant is not the same thing. That logic applies to breathability, too (if you desire breathable fabric). If you don’t see the word “breathable,” then it isn’t. Buy very large sizes. Besides the threat of having a boy outgrow it, remember that rain gear is only effective when worn over everything else. At times that may include a winter coat.
Cooking & Eating Gear For most trips pots, pans and cooking utensils are not needed. Neither are dishwashing supplies. The Troop cooks by patrol, normally on two-burner propane stoves, and we have patrol chuck boxes bristling with materials for this purpose. For eating each Scout must have his own personal kit that includes a knife, fork, spoon, cup, and bowl. We recommend stainless steel eating utensils, but cups and bowls are better made of plastic as metal conducts heat away quickly. That defeats some of the purpose of hot food, especially in cold weather. The best type of cup is insulated and has a lid, like a no-spill coffee mug. The personal kit could come from your kitchen at first, but eventually a set designed for camping will be needed. We do not use disposable items, napkins or paper towels. On backpacking trips, which occur only occasionally, a good deal of the cooking is done individually. For these outings a metal mess kit, which includes a pot with a lid and a pan is needed. Stainless steel lasts longer and is easier to clean, aluminum is lighter and costs less, both cook food. First Aid Kit Each Scout must have his own personal-size first aid kit. The recommended contents can be found in the first aid section of the Boy Scout handbook. It is usually more economical to buy a ready-made kit than to make your own. Be sure to supplement the kit with moleskin for blisters and Spenco Second Skin for blisters and burns. Knives, Axes & Saws A Scout may carry a pocketknife, but only after he has earned his “Totin’ Chip,” proving that he will use it safely. Older Scouts sometimes carry a hand axe. Larger knives and knives with fixed blades are never needed by a Scout. When he is permitted to bring a knife, it is better for a boy to have a few high quality steel blades and tools that can hold an edge than to spend the same money for a knife that is overloaded with gadgets. A quality basic knife is not cheap, but it is safer to use than a dull, cheap one. Bridging Cub Scouts who have earned the Cub Scout Whittlin’ Chip are permitted to use only a pocketknife; and that only after discussing safety with one of the Assistant Scoutmasters. The boy must have the Whittlin’ Chip with him. Canteens & Water Bottles The Troop always sees to water supplies in camp, but when we leave for the day the Scouts have to carry their personal supply. When backpacking they have to carry their entire supply. We recommend simple, clear plastic one-quart bottles available from camping and backpacking dealers. They are low in cost, they don’t leak, and they weigh less and are easier to clean than metal. It is also easy to see if the bottle and the water in it are clean if it is made of clear material. Traditional metal canteens are outmoded. A liter soda bottle with a decent lid will do nicely. Bottles should be filled before leaving on a trip. Water always tastes better when it comes from home. Ground Cloth The uses for a simple sheet of plastic are nearly limitless. It can act as a ground cloth, make an emergency shelter, collect drinking water, serve as a poncho, make a sun shade, keep the rain off equipment, cover a leaky tent (expect this at summer camp), and on and on. The basic need is a sheet of at least 4 mil plastic measuring at least 5’ x 7’ (bigger is better). Store-bought ground clothes may include sportsman’s blankets that have an aluminum side and grommets on the perimeter, or multi use sheets with numerous ties. These are more versatile, but also more expensive. As with raincoats, vinyl should be avoided because it rarely lasts to the end of even a single use. Space blankets, while useful for emergencies, are no substitute for the more robust, and cheaper, sheet of plastic. Hiking Shoes If we go backpacking, a Scout will need a decent pair of sturdy hiking shoes that cover his ankles. This is important for his feet. Street shoes and particularly deck shoes are not good enough. At the same time, it is a fact that boys this age will probably outgrow a pair of hiking shoes before he wears them out so the top of the line is not necessary. A light to medium rating is fine. The best soles are “Vibram.” If possible new hiking shoes should be purchased ahead of time to allow the boy to break them in prior to the hike. A second pair of shoes is a good idea for most trips. We do not allow sandals or any other type of open-toe shoes. The Scout Essentials There are ten things considered to be indispensable for every outing. You will find them listed in the camping section of the Boy Scout handbook as the “Scout Essentials.” Each boy should use this checklist when packing for a trip. Camping Gear Suppliers · H & H Surplus & Campers Haven - Franklin & Eutaw Streets, downtown Baltimore. A large selection, great range of quality, and good prices. · Appalachian Outfitters - York Road, Cockeysville · Sunny’s Surplus – South River Road off West Street in Annapolis. The quality of the equipment is low to fair. The staff has some basic knowledge. Surplus stores like this and Lee’s usually have better prices. · Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI) - College Park. The quality of the equipment is fair to excellent. The staff is very knowledgeable. This is a good place to go for advice. Prices are high so shop the sales. · Sears, Wal-Mart, K-Mart – They’re everywhere. The quality of the equipment is low to fair. Staff knowledge is marginal; don’t expect to have your questions answered. You need to know what you want when you get there. Prices are good. · Campmor – a mail order outfit in New Jersey. Call 1-800-CAMPMOR and ask them to send a catalog. Some of their sales are excellent. |
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