WHATS ON THIS PAGE.....

DID YOU KNOW....
---SAFETY WARNINGS
---HEALTH WARNINGS

CARING FOR YOUR PARROT
---Wing Trims
---Beak trims
---Nail Trims
---Blood Feathers
---Egg Binding
---Over Grooming

IS YOUR HOUSE SAFE
---Bird Proofing the House
---Household Dangers
---The Right Temperature for a Bird in the House
---Bird Safe Cleaning Products

IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY
---Poison Control
---Emergency Bird Care
---Emergency Vets
---Link to Avian CPR

HEALTH CARE HELP
---Avian First Aid Kit
---Avian Physical Exam
---Avian First Aid Coarse
---Affording Emergency Vet Care

WILDLIFE
---Wildlife Rehabilitators
---Wildlife Agencies

HEALTH WARNING:

DANGER: CARDBOARD PAPER TOWEL AND TOILET PAPER ROLLS

Many of us have allowed our parrots to play with and shred paper towel cores after we've used the entire paper towel supply from the core.

This has appeared to be harmless and we were very shocked to learn that it could be harmful!
Had It not been for an email from Kimberly-Clark, one of the manufacturers of paper towels and toilet paper, We might not have believed this information.

Zinc toxicity is very serious and can kill a parrot if it is severe.
Kidney damage, upset digestion, feather plucking and increased water intake are all signs of zinc poisoning.
Other symptoms include vomiting, loss of appetite and larger than usual green droppings. Sudden death, unfortunately, is another sign.

Cockatoos are especially sensitive but no parrot is exempt. If you do, however, have a cockatoo that plucks feathers and nothing has resolved the problem, ask your vet to check for zinc in the parrot's blood.

Be aware of zinc toxicosis (a big word for zinc poisoning) in parrots, but had always heard that the most common cause was older cages or the use of galvanized wire in aviaries.
Using washers containing zinc to attach toys to a parrot's cages is another potential cause of zinc poisoning that I had heard of.
However,We were shocked to learn that the adhesive used to attach the first sheet of paper towel to the cardboard core has resulted in some parrots being diagnosed with zinc toxicosis. This same adhesive can be present in toilet paper rolls also.
Kimberly-Clark's statement regarding this adhesive says:
"Although the core glue is safe for its intended use, it is not intended to be ingested. It is not food grade and does not meet indirect food contact regulations.

Therefore, we cannot recommend that it be used with pets".

Toys with rings:

We were horrified and shocked to hear a cockatiel had hung himself on a toy. It is one that has the key ring on the top that you use to connect it to the cage. Did you ever dream that a cockatiel could get their head through that little ring, but were learning the hard way they can.

Toys were bought from Pet Catalog. Weve all bought lots of them, all labeled for birds.

Share this information and maybe we can prevent another tragedy.

Cage Bedding:

Only use paper on the bottom of the birdcages.

Almost everything sold over the counter as bedding, can be harmful one way or another for the birds.
Birds have died from ingesting the corncob bedding and other materials used as flooring for the cage.

Cedar is never to be used for anything.

Arm & Hammer, Pet Fresh Carpet Deodorizer:

Message: "Cockatiel dies after useing it.

Company admitted it's not recommended for use around birds.
They said they didn't need to put a warning on the product.

WHY NOT???

CARING FOR YOUR BIRD'S HEALTH,

IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE OR UNCERTAIN ON HOW TO DO ANY OF THE PROCEEDURES LISTED ON THIS PAGE,
PLEASE CONSULT YOUR AVIAN VETERANIAN FIRST.
FRESH START DOES NOT RECOMMEND THAT A PET OWNER ATTEMPT TO PERSONALY TRIM THEIR BIRDS WINGS, BEAK OR NAILS.

WING TRIMS,

Which Feathers and How Much to Clip

- After clipping a bird should still be able to fly a few feet. This enables him to protect himself from a fall, by giving him enough lift to land safely. If clipped too drastically, he won't be able to maneuver to avoid hitting something dangerous or to break his fall. As a result he may injure his beak, breastbone or wings or even break a leg as he plummets to the ground.
-The only feathers which should be clipped are the primary flight feathers. These are the ten long feathers on the outermost part of the wing. Start at the 10th primary (the one furthest from the body) and progress inward. How many primaries you need to clip varies by species and bird.

-Feathers should be trimmed back so that the cut end is just under the major coverts. The coverts will thus surround the rough edges and help prevent them from irritating the skin. This is very important, as birds may begin feather plucking if the trimmed feathers are irritating.

-Don't clip the feathers on only one wing. This can cause problems with balance, resulting in injury when trying to fly or land.

-For aesthetic reasons, some people leave the last one or two outside primaries and clip the ones closer to the body. This is not recommended for two reasons. First, a bird may be able to get a lot of lift from these primaries, especially if he gets loose outside and finds a gust of wind. Second, these feathers will have little support from surrounding feathers and are more likely to break.
-Experienced people have a good idea of how many feathers to remove. If in doubt, clip a few feathers. If your bird still retains too much flight capability, then clip a few more. Repeat this process until your bird can fly only a few feet.
-Some species of birds require clipping of more feathers than others. In general the more aerodynamic the species, the more feathers need to be trimmed. Conures and macaws are very aerodynamic. Amazons and Greys are not as aerodynamic, so fewer feathers need to be clipped. Even within bird families, species requirements vary. We own both a green cheek and a dusky conure. We clip all ten primaries of our green cheek, while our dusky is fine with a clip of eight or nine primaries.

-Be very careful when clipping, not to trim a blood feather, a feather that is still growing and receiving a blood supply from the body. You can recognize a blood feather by the blood in the shaft. If cut they will bleed and can become an emergency situation.

How to Clip Your vet will clip your bird's wings. If you wish to learn how to do it yourself, then ask your vet or an experienced person to show you how.

KEEPING BEAKS TRIMMED

-Beaks do not need to be trimmed under normal circumstances. Birds that are have a chronic illness, a previously injury to the beak or a nutritional deficiency may occasionally need their beak trimmed by an avian veterinarian.

-Keeping a cuttlebone, a mineral block or small bird lava stone in the cage will assist in keeping the cockatiel's beak at the proper size and shape. Toys and other bird-safe objects to chew on also help with this condition as well as prevents boredom.

-If you think your bird's beak may need to be trimmed, please check with your avian veterinarian. I'm sure they will be happy to do this for you and teach you how to keep your bird's beak in shape.

-A bird's beak contains a blood supply as well as a sensory organ at the tip. This tells the bird whether what he has in his beak is hot or cold, and basically whether it is food or not. To damage this sensory organ would mean that the beak will not regrow normally and could pose a threat to the bird's ability to eat normally. Please do not ever try trimming your bird's beak yourself. Take it to your trusted avian vet first for an evaluation

BLOOD FEATHERS

-A blood feather is an actively growing feather that still has a blood supply running to it. When a bird molts out a feather, a new one is forming in the follicle. This live tissue has a central artery and vein to supply nutrients to the growing feather.

How do I identify a blood feather?

-A blood feather has a thicker quill (or calamus) than than a mature feather, and the calamus is softer and bluish-purple in color. There is a sheath that encloses the developing feather. Also, blood feathers are shorter than mature feathers, since they have not grown to their full lengths.

Where are blood feathers located?

-Blood feather are located on different areas of a bird's body, depending on what molting stage he is in. (Molting is the process by which birds shed feathers and grow new ones.) Birds usually molt in a particular pattern, so that in the wild they are always able to fly. Birds may molt, one, two, or three times per year, depending on the species. The pattern of molting follows an orderly progression. In a complete molt, the sequence is usually first the inner primaries, then the secondaries and tail feathers, and lastly body feathers. Matched pairs of feathers are usually shed at the same time so that flight is still possible. Baby birds growing their first set of feathers have all their blood feathers at one time, all over their bodies.

When is a blood feather dangerous?

-The danger with blood feathers occurs if a feather is cut, broken, or bent. Because the feather has an artery and vein, a damaged blood feather will bleed, often profusely. Once a broken blood feather begins bleeding, the simplest solution is to gently remove the damaged feather by pulling it.

How do I pull a blood feather?

-To remove a blood feather, use a pair of needle-nosed pliers or a pair of hemostats. Gently grasp the feather near the base of the calamus, (close to the body) and using steady pressure, pull the feather straight out in the direction in which it is growing. This procedure usually requires two people, one to hold the bird and the wing (assuming the broken blood feather is on the wing--a common spot), and one to pull out the offending feather.

-Broken blood feathers may stop bleeding if left untouched, but as soon as they are bumped, bleeding usually commences. The only permanent solution is to gently, but firmly, pull the feather from its follicle and apply pressure to the follicle area with tissue, gauze or Quick-Stop™ until the bleeding stops.
Once a blood feather is pulled, the feather-growth process begins all over again, and a new blood feather will soom replace the pulled one. Once a feather reaches matuity, the blood supply degenerates, the pulp dries up and the calamus develops into a hard shaft.

-When you clip your bird's wings, make sure you examine each quill (or calamus), and identify each shaft as not being a blood feather before you cut. If you do this each time, you will minimize your chances of having a broken blood feather, although it still seems to happen to all birds at one time or another.

EGG BINDING

-Egg binding, or the obstruction of the uterus or oviduct by an egg, is a common problem seen in female birds. Since it can occur in a female bird, even if a mate is not present, unmated pet birds can also experience this problem. Egg binding can be life-threatening, especially in the smaller species such as finches, budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels.
-Most companion birds lay eggs every 24 - 48 hours during their laying cycle, but variability in egg transit time can make it difficult to know when a problem is occurring.
-A variety of things may cause egg binding. One of the most common causes of egg binding is an all-seed diet because it is very low in calcium as well as other essential vitamins and minerals. Other causes include obesity, lack of exercise, oversized or mal-formed eggs, excessive egg laying, oviduct infection or damage, heredity and senility are all causes of egg binding.
-Egg formation takes approximately 24-25 hours. If an egg remains in the oviduct for an abnormal length of time, a number of problems may result. These problems tend to be most severe in the smaller species. If an egg remains lodged in the pelvic canal, it can interfere with blood circulation in the pelvis and to the kidneys. The egg can interfere with urination and defecation, leading to metabolic disturbances. The egg can press against the wall of the oviduct, causing it to die and rupture.
Clinical Signs:

-Presenting clinical signs vary with the individual bird. A hen may appear depressed, have an abnormally wide stance, and make repeated straining motions. Some birds may be puffed yet perching, while others may be found on the bottom of the cage. Some birds may even be found dead on the floor of the cage or aviary without any previous warning. Droppings may be larger than normal or no droppings may be passed and the vent may be dilated and swollen.

Diagnosis of Egg Binding:

-Many birds have a history of prolonged egg laying, while others may have never laid an egg before. If you suspect that a bird is egg bound, it should be examined by an avian veterinarian immediately. In some birds, gentle examination of the abdomen reveals the presence of an egg. It is often necessary to radiograph the bird to determine the size, position and number of eggs present. If the egg shell is not present, ultrasound may be necessary to reveal the presence of an egg.

Treatment of Egg Binding:

-Egg binding should be considered an emergency. Medical treatment is initiated to stabilize the bird. The bird may be given fluids intravenously or subcutaneously as well as antibiotics, steroids and calcium. It is placed in an incubator at 85-95 degrees F with moistened air. If the egg is not passed within a few hours, additional calcium as well as certain drugs to stimulate contraction and expulsion of the egg may be administered. Sometimes it is necessary to sedate the bird with isoflurane and manually pass the egg. If this is not possible due to the large size of the egg, ovocentesis or aspiration of the egg's contents, followed by collapse of the egg and removal of the shell may be necessary.

-Long term management of birds recovering from egg binding should involve dietary and environmental changes. If the bird is on a seed diet it should be switched to a more balanced diet, including pellets. Ample calcium should be present in the form of natural vegetables. If a supplement is required, oyster shells or neocalglucagan can be used. In addition to an appropriate diet, exercise is necessary to prevent obesity. Hormones and other drugs may be administered to try to temporarily stop egglaying, but a hysterectomy may be necessary for those birds that have repeat occurances of egg binding. If an egg breaks inside the female, yolk peritonitis, a life threatening situation may result. This is why it is important for a veterinarian to remove the egg and not the owner. If an egg is visible and not encased in membranes, but stuck to the bird, the owner may be able to apply warm water or KY Jelly as a lubricant and gently remove the egg. However, if the egg is protruding, but appears encased in tissues, the oviduct or cloaca may also be involved and may have prolapsed. The bird should be taken to a veterinarian immediately, while being kept in a warm, humid environment.

-Most companion birds lay eggs every 24 - 48 hours during their laying cycle, but variability in egg transit time can make it difficult to know when a problem is occurring.

-A variety of things may cause egg binding. One of the most common causes of egg binding is an all-seed diet because it is very low in calcium as well as other essential vitamins and minerals. Other causes include obesity, lack of exercise, oversized or mal-formed eggs, excessive egg laying, oviduct infection or damage, heredity and senility are all causes of egg binding.

-Egg formation takes approximately 24-25 hours. If an egg remains in the oviduct for an abnormal length of time, a number of problems may result. These problems tend to be most severe in the smaller species. If an egg remains lodged in the pelvic canal, it can interfere with blood circulation in the pelvis and to the kidneys. The egg can interfere with urination and defecation, leading to metabolic disturbances. The egg can press against the wall of the oviduct, causing it to die and rupture.

Clinical Signs:

-Presenting clinical signs vary with the individual bird. A hen may appear depressed, have an abnormally wide stance, and make repeated straining motions. Some birds may be puffed yet perching, while others may be found on the bottom of the cage. Some birds may even be found dead on the floor of the cage or aviary without any previous warning. Droppings may be larger than normal or no droppings may be passed and the vent may be dilated and swollen.

Diagnosis of Egg Binding:

-Many birds have a history of prolonged egg laying, while others may have never laid an egg before. If you suspect that a bird is egg bound, it should be examined by an avian veterinarian immediately. In some birds, gentle examination of the abdomen reveals the presence of an egg. It is often necessary to radiograph the bird to determine the size, position and number of eggs present. If the egg shell is not present, ultrasound may be necessary to reveal the presence of an egg.

Treatment of Egg Binding:

-Egg binding should be considered an emergency. Medical treatment is initiated to stabilize the bird. The bird may be given fluids intravenously or subcutaneously as well as antibiotics, steroids and calcium. It is placed in an incubator at 85-95 degrees F with moistened air. If the egg is not passed within a few hours, additional calcium as well as certain drugs to stimulate contraction and expulsion of the egg may be administered. Sometimes it is necessary to sedate the bird with isoflurane and manually pass the egg. If this is not possible due to the large size of the egg, ovocentesis or aspiration of the egg's contents, followed by collapse of the egg and removal of the shell may be necessary.

-Long term management of birds recovering from egg binding should involve dietary and environmental changes. If the bird is on a seed diet it should be switched to a more balanced diet, including pellets. Ample calcium should be present in the form of natural vegetables. If a supplement is required, oyster shells or neocalglucagan can be used. In addition to an appropriate diet, exercise is necessary to prevent obesity. Hormones and other drugs may be administered to try to temporarily stop egglaying, but a hysterectomy may be necessary for those birds that have repeat occurances of egg binding. If an egg breaks inside the female, yolk peritonitis, a life threatening situation may result. This is why it is important for a veterinarian to remove the egg and not the owner. If an egg is visible and not encased in membranes, but stuck to the bird, the owner may be able to apply warm water or KY Jelly as a lubricant and gently remove the egg. However, if the egg is protruding, but appears encased in tissues, the oviduct or cloaca may also be involved and may have prolapsed. The bird should be taken to a veterinarian immediately, while being kept in a warm, humid environment.

Over Grooming, Warning Signs

1. If your bird’s toenails are drastically overgrown and curling under, seek veterinary advice. This could be a sign of mites, foot disease, or nutritional disorders.

2. If your bird’s beak is wildly overgrown and is curling in on itself, or is strange looking and bumpy, visit your avian veterinarian right away. This could be a sign of mites or a nutritional disorder.

3. If your bird is “over grooming,” working its feathers so much that it’s chewing them and/or plucking them out, it could be a result of a psychological or physical disorder. See your avian veterinarian right away.

4. If you notice bald patches on your bird where there were formerly feathers, make a veterinary appointment right away. The exception is breeding females who may pluck out a “brooding patch” on the chest to keep her eggs warm.

5. Molting, or the changing of feathers, happens about twice a year. You will notice feathers in and around your bird’s cage. This is normal. If you notice the molt going on for longer than a few months, seek a doctor’s advice.

6. If your bird is drastically changing color—say, from lime green to dark red—and it’s not a result of maturing, seek veterinary help. This could be a sign of stress or malnutrition. The same holds for excessive barring on the feathers, when not associated with a normal color change.

Grooming Nevers

--Never trim any other feathers than ½ of the flight feather on the wing. Never trim the tail or body feathers. Birds use these feathers for balance and body temperature regulation.

--Never pull your bird’s feathers out in lieu of trimming them. There are occasions where feathers may need to be pulled, but not as a substitute for clipping.

--Never trim the wing feathers on a finch, canary, robin, quail, or other similar birds.

--Never try to groom the beak. Only your avian veterinarian should do this. You can damage your bird for life if you make a mistake.

--Never restrain a bird forcefully. Gentle tactics result in a happier bird. If you have to groom over several days to save your bird from stress, do so.

--Never bathe your bird in cold weather when there’s no warm place to dry.

--Never spray commercial bathing solutions into your bird’s face.

--Never soak a bird that doesn’t want to bathe. If water frightens your bird, use gentle tactics to get him used to the bath, not trial by fire.

--Never bathe your bird like you would a dog, in a tub or sink full of soapy water. Do this only if your bird comes in contact with oil (which also requires a veterinary visit).

-- Never try to paint your bird’s toenails—not only is the paint a potential toxin, your bird may not like your color choice!

A Note On Grooming the Beak

Don’t do it.

Grooming the beak is best left to your avian veterinarian. Sometimes a bird’s beak will become misaligned, overgrown, or cracked, and will need to be fixed—but not by you. Trying to groom the beak when you don’t know what you’re doing can lead to serious injury for your bird.

Bird Proofing Your Home

If you have a human baby in your home that is just starting to crawl and move around, it is necessary to baby proof the home. The same is true if you have a bird, especially a parrot species who will be out of his/her cage. The difference is that the human baby will grow up & not need the same restrictions all his life, but your home will always have to be bird proof if you keep birds.

Birds like to chew and are attracted to plants, so poisonous plants will have to be removed. Not all plants are poisonous, but many are. You can take a look at Gillian's Help Desk listed in the Diseases & Warnings links section to see a comprehensive list of both safe and unsafe plants as well as other toxins.

Another worry with a bird that chews, especially if you live in an older home is that the paint that may be on the walls and woodwork might have lead in it.

There are many dangers to your bird in the kitchen. A stove burner turned on without a pot sitting on it can obviously cause serious injury to a bird landing on it. An open pot with boiling water in it is also very dangerous. Even if your bird is locked in the cage in the kitchen there is a serious danger if you use Teflon coated products. The fumes from Teflon, if overheated can kill a bird before you have even had a chance to realize what happened.

Birds are very sensitive to air pollutants and things like smoke from cigarettes, aerosol sprays, scented candles and cleaning supplies could make your bird very ill or could cause death.

In any room of the home, danger can exist for your bird if you allow him to walk on the floor. You must be consistent & absolutely every time he lands on the floor to walk somewhere, you must pick him up & get him off the floor. It is so easy to forget he is on the floor if you get up to go answer the door and because your bird trusts you completely, he would never try to fly out of your way as you approach him.

You must make sure that your bird’s cage is not in line with the vent from either the furnace or air conditioning unit. The temperature changes, as the unit goes on & off are certainly not good for your feathered friend.

So, please take some time to look around & make your home safe for your bird. You will be rewarded by having your companion happy and healthy for many years.

COMMON HOUSEHOLD POISONS,
THAT CAN BE DEADLY TO YOUR BIRD[S]
IF YOUR BIRD HAS COME IN CONTACT WITH ANY OF THE ITEMS ON THIS LIST
REMAIN CALM, AND IMMEDIATLY CALL
POISON CONTROL:
888-426-4435

-Lye

-Matches

-Model Cement

-Moth Balls

-Muriatic Acid

-Mushrooms

-Nail Polish Remover

-Oven Cleaners

-Over Heated Non-Stick Cookware

-Paint

-Paint Thinners

-Perfumes

-Pesticides

-Pine-Sol

-Rx Drugs (Including over the counter)

-Rubbing Alcohol

-Scented Candles

-Shellac

-Shoe Polish

-Silver Polish

-Snail Bait

-Spot Removers

-Spray Starch

-Strychnine

-Sulfuric Acid

-Super Glue

-Suntan Lotion and Oils

-Turpentine

-Wax

-Weed Killers

-Window Cleaners

WHATS A GOOD TEMPERATURE FOR A HOME WITH A PARROT?

Different factors can affect how your bird feels in different temperatures.

Considering how difficult extreme temperatures can be on pet birds, does that mean there’s an ideal temperature range?

“Yes,” most pet birds have a comfort range of between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They can withstand a much broader range, however, of 40 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Whether or not your bird is more comfortable with temperatures on the lower or higher end of the range depends on a number of factors.

#1 If your bird has access to moving air, it can usually withstand a little more heat (often as high as 90 degrees Fahrenheit) than if the air is stagnant. Two ways you can provide air movement for your indoor bird is to place its cage next to an open window (so that it can feel the breeze) or place a fan close to the cage.

“This allows your bird to get air to cool its respiratory tract so that its core temperature doesn’t rise,” If your birds are in outdoor flights, they may be able to handle heat up to the mid 90s, especially if there’s good ventilation, and if the birds can fly to get the air moving.

#2 Another factor is the bird’s weight. Very skinny birds have less meat on their bones to help them keep warm and may not be able to handle as chilly temperatures as a bird that’s a little plumper. Overweight birds, on the other hand, are prone to overheating and do not function as well in very hot weather compared to lower weight birds.

The fatter the bird, the less ability it has to cope with heat and the lower the temperatures necessary to cause heat stress. Birds cool themselves down by breathing and expanding their air sacs and fluffing their feathers out and increasing the conduction of heat through skin and out through the feathers. Obese birds can’t do this as well. The fat layer on their body acts as insulation and compresses the air sacs so they can’t get any air in and out.

If an obese, indoor parrot was suddenly put outside in 85 degrees Fahrenheit weather, that bird would probably suffer heat stress, However a lean parrot could probably stand 90 or 95 degrees Fahrenheit without any problems.

#3 A third factor is what environmental temperature the bird is used to. Birds can tolerate extreme cold or hot weather if they are allowed to gradually adjust, or acclimate, to it. People who have outdoor jobs don’t feel the heat or cold as harshly as those who are almost always indoors with furnaces or air conditioners. Our birds can also adapt, and there are aviculturists with outdoor aviaries who report that their birds do just fine even when there is snow on the ground.

Most parrots, even those from the tropics, can handle short periods (two or three days) of extreme cold — if they have been allowed to become gradually acclimated to it. However, if your parrot has spent its entire life in your 70-degrees Fahrenheit home and you suddenly put it in an outdoor flight in 20 degrees Fahrenheit weather, that bird would probably get hypothermia. Your bird would also be in trouble if you out of the blue one day put it outdoors on a 95 degrees Fahrenheit day. Sudden temperature changes can be very stressful to pet birds.

The bottomline,is you should not allow your bird’s environmental temperature to change more than 10 to 15 degrees within a 24-hour period. “Birds can handle almost any temperature, but they need time to adjust,” he stressed. This means if you’re going to let your birds play in the snow this winter, you need to gradually get them used to cooler and cooler temperatures. You might start putting your bird outside for a few hours each day in the Fall as temperatures get cooler and cooler. By mid-December, your bird will probably have built up enough of a downcoat that it can play with you in the season’s first snow.

Parrot friendly, Non-Toxic Cleaner Recipes

Parrot Friendly Glass Cleaner

This is one of the best recipes - plain club soda as a window cleaner. Easy, inexpensive and effective. Costs about a penny an ounce.

Ingredients - Club soda (found in the soda section of the grocery store) and an 8 or 16-ounce spray bottle.

Fill the bottle with plain club soda (undiluted). Spray and wipe with a lint-free cloth. Use on any glass surface. For best results use two lint-free clothes. One for the first wet wipe and the other for the dry wipe. Parrot Friendly Furniture Polish

This recipe is as effective as any store-bought product and only costs $.30 per bottle to make!

Ingredients - Olive oil (preferably the light kind), white distilled vinegar, pure essential lemon oil, water and a 16-ounce spray bottle.

Put 2 teaspoons of olive oil in the bottle. Add 20 drops or more of pure essential lemon oil. Add 1/4 cup of white distilled vinegar. Fill the rest of the bottle with purified water. Shake well. Be sure to use pure essential lemon oil, not the chemical synthetics.

Spray this formula on your rag or directly onto the furniture. Wipe it dry immediately. It's great for weekly dusting and cleaning of wood. Use on cabinets, wood paneling and picture frames. You may also use this recipe on your dust mop to dust wood floors. Shake well before each use.

Parrot Friendly Antiseptic Soap Spray

This recipe takes advantage of the antiseptic power of Tea Tree Oil.

Ingredients - Liquid soap, purified water, Tea Tree Oil and a 16-ounch squirt or spray bottle.

Fill the bottle almost full with water and then add 3 tablespoons of liquid soap to prevent the bottle from sudsing up as you fill it. Because minerals inhibit the clean action of soap, it's best to use purified or distilled water for this recipe. Add 20-30 drops or more of Tea Tree oil for antiseptic power. Shake to mix.

Squirt this safe alternative on floors, laundry, doorknobs, bathtubs, toilet seats and more. Works really well on some of the tough stuff like urine, toilet bowl overflows, vomit, birdy "droppings" and other unmentionables.

Parrot Friendly Toilet Bowl Cleaner

Ingredients - Liquid soap or detergent, baking soda, white vinegar, Tea Tree oil, water and a 22-ounce squirt bottle.

Mix 1/2 cup liquid soap and 2 cups baking soda together. May use Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap for this recipe. Work out any lumps with a fork. Dilute with 1/4 cup of water and add 2 tablespoons vinegar to make it foam. Add 1/2 teaspoon Tea Tree oil (about 50 drops). When measuring oil, use a metal spoon, don't use plastic spoons. Mix and pour the final solution into a 22-ounce squirt bottle. Shake the bottle well before each use.

Squirt the cleaner inside the toilet, on and under the rim and on the seat. Use a high-quality brush for the inside and a sponge for the rim and seat. Rinse with vinegar if you like.

Parrot Friendly Drain Cleaner

This is an easy and entertaining way to keep your drains clear, clean and odor-free. It's only somewhat effective at clearing a clog, but it is truly great at preventing them.

Ingredients - Baking soda and white vinegar.

Pour about 1/2 cup of baking soda into the drain. Add a cup or more of white vinegar. The mixture will start to fizz. Cover the drain with a stopper or plunger for a couple of minutes until the fizzing stops. The bubbles will clean the drain. Rinse well with hot or boiling water. Repeat if necessary.

This recipe, if regularly used, will help prevent clogged drains and may work on only very mild clogs. Never use this recipe after you have used a commercial drain cleaner! You have an extremely dangerous chemical in your drain, and you need to call a plumber to handle it properly.

Parrot Friendly Carpet Cleaner

This recipe is for general carpet cleaning, an easy way to clean up the spots of food, juice, soda and things that your parrot may leave behind.

Ingredients - Liquid soap or detergent, a blender. Put 1/4 cup of liquid soap or detergent in a blender with 1/3 club of water or more. Blend until foamy. Smear the mixture on the carpet spots and let it sit for a few minutes, or longer if dirtier. If you have a carpet brush, use it. Finish with a squirt of vinegar and clean up the excess with some old towels.

Parrot Friendly Kitchen and Bath Soft Cleanser

Ingredients - Baking soda, liquid soap, white distilled vinegar, water and a 16-ounce squeeze container with a flip-top cap. Only a few types of squirt tops will work for this recipe.

Mix 1 2/3 cups baking soda with 1/2 cup of liquid soap in a bowl. Use a liquid soap not a liquid detergent for this recipe. Dilute with 1/2 cup water. Add 2 tablespoons vinegar last. Stir only until the lumps are gone. If you can pour it into the container easily, then you have the right consistency. If it's too thick, add more water. Keep the top on because this mixture will dry out. Shake well before each use.

Squirt this very effective cleaner anywhere, especially the tub, sink and toilet bowl. It may be used on floors, garbage cans and any greasy or grimy job.

EMERGENCY SICK BIRD CARE

There are five important elements to consider in supportive care of a sick (or injured) bird, listed in order of importance:

1. Heat

2. Humidity

3. Fluids

4. Nutrition

5. Quiet/Level of Activity

WHAT IF WERE NOT FEELING WELL??

1) Birds use a considerable amount of their energy and metabolic resources in keeping their body temperature up (at around 104 degrees.). Therefore, the single most important thing you can do for a sick bird is to artificially support its temperature, thus freeing as much of its energy as possible for dealing with the illness. The correct temperature is at least 85 degrees, and 90 degrees is preferable. Turn up the heat past 85 until the bird begins to pant, then slowly back it off just until the panting stops. When the bird begins to recover, remember to lower the temp gradually, no more than 5 degrees per day, until back to room temp.

2) Humidity is extremely important in cases of respiratory involvement in the illness, as it eases the breathing and helps the bird keep the air passages clear and moist. A vaporizer is best, a humidifier will work, and in a pinch placing the bird in the bathroom and periodically running hot water in the shower is better than nothing. If there is NO respiratory involvement, or the bird is physically injured and not ill, humidity is not so important. Respiratory involvement is indicated by any of the following: wheezy, raspy, bubbly, or clicking noises in the breathing; discharge from nostrils; breathing heavily or with difficulty (if the tail moves noticeably as the bird breathes, it is breathing heavily); beak held open to breathe but not panting.

3) A sick bird is easily dehydrated, especially since it may not drink as much on its own, its temperature is elevated, and its digestion may be disrupted. In extreme cases a veterinarian may administer fluids under the skin, but oral fluids are also very helpful. If your bird isn't drinking a lot on its own, give fluids from your finger, a spoon, or by syringe. Some suggestions for fluids to give: Infalyte brand infant electrolyte solution, apple or grape juice, D5W (medical glucose/saline solution), bottled water with a little sugar or honey. Don't use Gatorade, it's too high in salt!

4) As you are maximizing the amount of energy the bird can use in fighting the illness by elevating the ambient temperature, you should also ensure that food energy continues to be available. The best things to give a sick bird are high in carbohydrates and easy to digest. Examples: hand-feeding formula, infant rice cereal, baby food, ground-up pellets mixed with fruit juice, molasses, honey, Instant Ounces brand emergency food for birds, cream of wheat, papaya juice or nectar, fruit juice (except orange). If your bird doesn't eat on its own while ill, you need to hand feed it, or force feed it if necessary. Birds can starve to death in 48 - 72 hours when healthy, and can go even faster when ill. Inadequate nutrition will severely impact the bird's ability to recover from the illness.

5) Keep an ill or injured bird quiet and inactive. Keep it in semidarkness with no toys and nothing to climb or play on, much as you would keep a sick child in bed and encourage it to sleep. Limit noisy activities or move the bird to a quiet part of the house. Additional notes: If the bird regurgitates food or fluids, you may be giving too much. Try smaller amounts more frequently. If your bird is on antibiotic therapy, remember that these drugs also kill the "friendly" bacteria that help it to digest its food. Give yogurt, bene-bac, lactobacillus supplement, or acidophilus to help digestion and to prevent backlash Candida (yeast) infections. If you see any sign of yeast (white spots in mouth or on tongue), call the vet and get an antifungal preparation to give with the antibiotic.

VETERINARY OFFICES
FOR EMERGENCY CARE

Valley Central Emergency Veterinary Clinic, Inc.
- 210 Fullerton Avenue Whitehall, PA (610) 435-5588

-Quakertown Veterinary Clinic, PC
- 2250 North Old Bethlehem Pike Quakertown, PA

-Creature Comfort Veterinary Service
- Old Route 15 Saylorsburg, PA (570) 992-0400, We are open 24 hours for emergencies.

-Rockhill Veterinary Associates
- 3210 State Road Sellersville, PA 257-6515, We are available 24 hours for emergencies.

-Gilbertsville Veterinarian Hospital
- 1538 East Philadelphia Avenue Gilbertsville, PA (610) 367-4744

POISON CONTROL INFORMATION

If your pet has swallowed anything you fear is poisonous, please call the ASPCA's National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) to get 24-Hour Animal Poison Information for Veterinarians and Pet Owners.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center is the premier animal-oriented poison control center in North America.

So it's the best resource for any animal poison-related emergency, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

Make the call that can make all the difference: (888) 426-4435.

BIRD FIRST AID KIT

Things You Should Have On Hand

I HAVE A BO - BO

-Vet Wrap or Paper Tape

-Hemostats

-Styptic Powder

-Syringe

-Gauze

-Q-Tips

-Hydrogen Peroxide

-Antibiotic Ointment

-Cage Thermometer

-Revitalizing Solution

-Baby blankets

The Avian Physical Exam

A thorough physical exam is one of the most important parts of an avian health check-up. It starts with a hands-off visual evaluation of the bird and its environment. Then it moves on to getting the bird's weight and a hands-on exam from the top of the head to the tip of the talons.

Here is a run down on what the vet may check for.

Feces: amount, color, consistency, Should be brown-green

Urates: white to light tan and chalky

Urine: liquid and clear

Blood is black

Attitude

BAR(bright, alert, responsive): vocal, interacting with owner QAR(quiet, alert, responsive): not vocal, alert and standing around

Depressed: feathers ruffled, standing on bottom of cage, eyes 1/2 closed

Posture

Stance

Wing placement

Respiratory effort

Tail position or movement

Location of bird in the cage

Weigh bird

Eyes

Clear, symmetrical, centered in socket

Normal conjunctiva: pale pink and moist

Look for swelling or asymmetry between commissure of eye and beak

Nares and Cere

Change in color

Discharge

Symmetrical

Patent

Hyperplasia

Beak

Growth of upper beak and lower beak

Proper occlusion

Evidence of necrosis

Grooves

Prognathism

Mouth

Evaluate jaw tone

Look at tongue and mucous membranes searching for abrasions, moisture and color

Evaluate Choana and surrounding sharp papillae

Ears

Presence of discharge or blood or erythema

Crop

Food should be present

May wet down feathers to look at vascularization or thickness

Feel for swellings or thickening or presence of foreign bodies

Skin and feathers of ventral body

Note color and texture and feel for masses

Look for scabs, ulcerations, etc.

Normal feathers are smooth, symmetrical and clean

Evaluate for overpreening or plucking

Abdomen

Palpate: Normal is slightly concave

Evaluate color of skin and look for scabs or ulcerations

Palpate lateral flank areas as fat may be stored there

Cloaca and Vent

Mucosa of Cloaca should be moist and pink

No feces should be present on feathers around the vent

Evaluate for erosions, hypertrophy, erythema, feather picking, etc.

Wings

Evaluate symmetry, range of motion, bony abnormalities, joints

Look at skin (don't forget to look for a tattoo)

Look at Feathers: color, shape uniformity, presence of parasites, stress bars, bleeding, broken or missing

Feet and Legs

Uniform color and texture of skin, scales present

Feathers should be smooth and uniform

Look for abrasions, calluses, erosions, ulcerations, proiiferative lesions, broken toe nails, missing toes, swollen joints, weak grip

If there is a leg band present on a pet bird, remove it if possible!!!! Necrosis, swelling and trauma may be a sequella... SAVE for owner

Tail and Uropygial gland

Normal tail feathers are clean, unbroken, unfrayed, and free from stress lines

Evaluate uropygial gland for swelling, erythema, ulceration and rupture

Auscultation

Cranial thorax for cardiac and respiratory sounds

Caudal thorax and back for wheezes, crackles, pops, whistles, and gurgles

American Red Cross Chapters Offering Pet First Aid Courses Return to Pet First Aid

PENNSYLVANIA

-Beaver-Lawrence Chapter

bchs@forcomm.net 133 Friendship Circle Beaver, PA 15009 724-775-9700

-Berks County Chapter, Reading

dwiswesser@berks.redcross.org 701 Centre Avenue Reading, PA 19601-2599 610-375-4383

-Butler County

-Centre Communities Chapter

-Chestnut Ridge Chapter, Latrobe

-Greater Hanover Chapter, Hanover

-Greater Lehigh Valley Chapter

-Lower Bucks County Chapter, Levittown

-Southeastern Pennsylvania Chapter, Philadelphia

-Westmoreland County Chapter, Greensburg

-Wyoming Valley Chapter

What You Can Do If You Are Having Trouble Affording Veterinary Care

-Many pet owners, at one point or another, are faced with unexpected veterinary bills. Veterinary medicine has progressed so far that now pet owners have new, and often expensive, options for the care of their ailing pets. Although the cost of veterinary care is actually very reasonable in comparison with the much higher cost of human health care, an unexpected medical emergency can present a major financial dilemma for an unprepared pet owner.

-The Humane Society of the United States recommends that, in addition to preparing for routine pet-care costs, you regularly set aside savings to cover for unexpected veterinary bills. Create a special "pet savings account" and contribute money to it on a regular basis.

If, despite your planning, your pet incurs major veterinary expenses that you have trouble affording, consider these suggestions:

-Ask your veterinarian if he or she will let you work out a payment plan. Many veterinarians are willing to work out a weekly or monthly payment plan so that you do not have to pay the entire cost of veterinary care up front.

-Contact your local shelter. Some shelters operate or know of local subsidized veterinary clinics or veterinary assistance programs. You can find the name and number of your local shelter in the Yellow Pages of your phone book under "animal shelter," "animal control," or "humane society," or by calling Information. You can also go to www.Pets911.com and enter your zip code to find a list of animal shelters, animal control agencies, and other animal care organizations in your community.

-If you have a specific breed, contact the National Club for that breed. In some cases, these clubs offer a veterinary financial assistance fund.

-Ask your veterinarian to submit an assistance request to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) "Helping Pets Fund."

FOR HELP WITH NON-DOMESTIC BIRDS AND OTHER WILDLIFE,
CONTACT YOUR LOCAL WILDLIFE AGENCIES OR YOUR LOCAL POLICE DEPARTMENT.
SO THAT THEY MAY BE ABLE TO OFFER YOU ASSISTANCE.

IS ANYBODY OUT THEIR THAT CAN HELP ME??

-AARK FOUNDATIAN-215-968-4963, NEWTOWN PA

-WOODLANDS WILDLIFE REFUGE -908-537-2856, CLINTON NJ

-RED CREEK WILDLIFE CENTER, INC -570-739-4393 SCHUYLKILL HAVEN,PA http://www.redcreekwildlifecenter.com

-LEHIGH WILD CARE -610-966-1855 SHIMERVILLE RD EMMAUS

-HOUSE RABBIT SOCIETY
-302-683-9009

-ANIMAL ORPHANS [CAT, KITTENS, DOGS AND PUPPIES]
-215-855-8990 HATFIELD PA

WILDLIFE REHABILITATORS, -UPDATED LIST, 9/2007

PENNSYLVANIA

-Deborah O'Shell, Blair County Wildlife Rehabilitation Center

-Nancy Crissman, Spruce Run Wildlife Rehab. Center

-Pennsylvania, Central region

-Robyn Graboski, Centre Wildlife Care

-Debbie Henry, Mifflin County Wildlife Rehab Center

-Ed Reish, Farragut Wildlife Rehab. Center

-Peggy Sue Hentz, Red Creek Wildlife Center

-Pennsylvania, Eastern region

-Lehigh WildCare

-Pennsylvania, East Central region (Summit Hill)

WE OWE THEM THAT MUCH

-Kathy Dubin Uhler (director), Pocono Wildlife Rehabilitation Center

-Barbara Gregory (director), Otter Habitat and Wildlife Rehabilitation Center

-Michele Calabretta Nicarry, licensed home wildlife rehabilitator