Exploring Your Woods: Thinning Stump Sprouts
By Jim Finley, Pennsylvania Extension Forester

This question is from William Krellner, who wanted to know how to thin stump sprouts, especially black cherry and red maple. This is an important question, as many of our stands, young and old, have many trees that originated from stumps. Knowing when and how to thin these clumps is challenging, maybe even unnerving.

Every forester probably has rules of thumb for dealing with this situation. Some of what they profess comes from research and some from experience. Wanting to get the response right, I delved into the literature and was surprised by the paucity of documentation.

Most of the literature focuses on how sprouts form, how they contribute to stand structure, and how to work with them when they are still relatively small. The process by which they form is fascinating and merits a future article in Forest Leaves. Fortunately, many of our hardwood species (e.g., red and white oaks, red and sugar maple, yellow poplar, black cherry, basswood, ash) will sprout. Many foresters would prefer to have seed origin trees over sprouts, but understand sprouts do contribute significantly to regeneration.

Why thin stump sprouts? Why thin any trees? We thin to reallocate the growth on a given area of forest onto the best trees available. There is only so much growth on an acre. If there are too many trees competing for growing space, individual tree growth is slowed. Therefore, thinning early is advantageous; delays result in lost growth. Some studies have found there are advantages to thinning when the sprouts are 5 years old or less. However, economists caution investing too much time and money too early in the stand’s development will not pay dividends; they suggest waiting long enough that the thinned sprouts provide a product. You have to make this decision for you and your woodlot.

When you are selecting trees to retain, favor those on opposite sides of the stump and having the lowest origin on the stump. As these trees continue to grow, they will form a “U-shaped” crotch. If you choose high origin sprouts, the trees will form a “V-shaped” crotch. If you wait too long and thin “V” crotch trees, the face between them, which is much more prone to rot, will become exposed, and decay may become an issue.

As you evaluate the sprout(s) to retain, consider their straightness, signs of decay, poorly pruned branch stubs, which often introduce rot and decay, evidence of epicormic branches (i.e., those feathery branches that emerge along the stem), and a lack of forks in the first 17 feet or so. Always consider the crown; look to open it so it can expand and become balanced and round. If the decision is to leave two stems, thin them as if they are one – they will compete at their interface but should have room to grow on their individual outer edges. Thinning will slow natural pruning of any stem. While not generally done in commercial operations, consider pruning side branches to a height of 17 feet.

In the process of researching this response, Susan Stout, US Forest Service, Irvine, PA, shared a paper by Jim Redding, retired from the Northern Area Lab, entitled Trees of Stump Sprout Origin. This short paper contains a wealth of information and if you would like to receive a copy, please contact the Stewardship Office at Penn State. We will either email or mail it to you.

Among other things, Jim Redding’s paper specifically addressed maple and black cherry and used science-based research by Alex Shigo, another US Forest Service researcher, to explain how decay affects trees and stump sprouts. Shigo’s work determined trees compartmentalize injuries by building barriers to contain decay and rot. Redding concluded, “In other words, trees do not repair tissue injured by wounds: they wall off invaded tissues, rather than repair and replace them.” The other linkage Redding made from Shigo was that the dark central core found in some northern hardwoods is not true heartwood, but is wound-initiated discoloration, which does not spread unless the tree is further injured. Further, species with ringporous structure, such as oaks, hickory, and ash differ in their susceptibility to decay from diffuse-porous species such as maple and black cherry.

Redding, based on his readings, concluded, “. . . defects in red maple clumps originate from poorly-healed branch stubs 4 to 12 feet above the sprout base. These defects did not pass through the base from one sprout to another, but ended abruptly as they entered the root collar zone.” He continues, “. . . poorer sprouts in red maple clumps can be cut without resulting damage to the remaining sprouts. Even in oak sprout clumps, the potential for spread of decayed wood from sprout to sprout is generally less than was commonly believed.”

In his conclusions, Redding suggests: 1) there is support in the literature to thin clumps to one or two better stems; 2) Shigo’s work sheds new light on decay and rot associated with clump thinning; 3) when thinning clumps take care to avoid splitting when felling trees in clumps (use an undercut); and 4) when initially harvesting, make sure stumps are cut low to ensure low origin sprouts.

Stump sprouts are an important component of a hardwood forest’s natural regeneration. As with all forest management, allocating resources (particularly light) speeds up or slows down the natural process of stand development. Thinning stump sprouts concentrates growth on better stems – improving form, enhancing mast production, and retaining species in the mix. Whenever you are removing any trees in your woodlot, always consider species diversity and your objectives for those trees left behind, be they wildlife, timber, aesthetics. The goal, as with all forest management practices, is to move the forest to a more sustainable place.

As you explore your woods, what questions do you encounter?
Send them to the Allyson Muth, Forest Leaves editor,
abm173@psu.edu. Others may share your curiosity

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September 16, 2009
For Immediate Release

The State of Pennsylvania's Forest Economy

Forests are not exempt from the ongoing financial crisis. Pennsylvania's forest products industry clearly links to the general state of the economy as lumber, furniture, components, and cabinets depend on housing starts. Most wood-related mills in Pennsylvania have reduced or closed operations.

As an indicator of how bad things are, visit Penn State's Timber Market Report at http://www.sfr.cas.psu.edu/TMR/TMR.htm. Stumpage prices for most species are less than half what they were a few years ago. Across the US and globally, the state of the forest products industry is similar. The good news is that there are signs of recovery -- albeit slow. Experts predict a year or so before we are, pardon the pun, out of the woods.

Fortunately, forest landowners have the option of waiting until markets for their trees rebound. Unlike like annual crops or dairy farmers, forest landowners do not have to harvest their product at any specific time. However, growing hardwood timber takes eighty or more years in Pennsylvania, and many of our forests are at that age. Therefore, some landowners may be facing planning harvest and regeneration decisions for their forest at a time when market prices are down. Because it takes so long to grow a forest and landowners have incurred carrying costs, it makes sense for landowners to do a little analysis to understand financially optimal harvest decisions.

While the economy is down there are emerging opportunities such as bioenergy, natural gas, and carbon offsets. High energy prices in 2007/2008 sparked interests in renewable energy and the potential of woody biomass as a viable alternative for heating, power, and ultimately ethanol (gas). The newfound interest in the Marcellus natural gas shale formation, underlying two-thirds of Pennsylvania, is another income opportunity for thousands of forest landowners. As the US Congress is poised to address the climate bill, forest landowners are in line to capture income from selling carbon credits to polluters. These emerging opportunities are not without risk, and caution is the operative word as these alternatives evolve.

Any decision a landowner makes, whether it is harvesting, reforesting, fencing, selling carbon credits, or gas leasing, has tax implications. As most people are pinching pennies, every taxable dollar saved from Uncle Sam is a dollar earned. With little effort, there are numerous ways forest landowners can take advantage of incentives and deductions provided by the IRS. Every forest landowner should know about concepts such capitalization (establishing basis), deductions/expenses, capital gains, reforestation tax incentives, cost share programs exclusions, and conservation easements.

In addition to tax planning, since the average age of forest landowners in Pennsylvania is about sixty, it is critical to consider a succession plan for the property. Federal estate taxes are still important for many landowners, especially if Congress doesn’t act soon. It is important for landowners to understand when to gift or pass on land to heirs. The wrong decision could have unintended consequences. Opportunities that may reduce consequences include stepped up basis, estate tax credits, marital deduction, extensions and deferrals and special use valuation.

What does the current economic outlook and emerging markets mean for forest owners, forestry professionals, and industry? First it suggests landowners need good timely advice on their options so as to make wise decisions about their property and resources. Forestry professionals and their advisors (e.g., accountants, financial advisers, attorneys, etc.) need up-to-date information about the forest economy.

In October and early November, Penn State Natural Resources Extension is offering workshops throughout the state on forest taxes, forest finance, and estate planning. All the above mentioned issues and more will be discussed. You can find information on the forest taxes and finance meetings at: http://rnrext.cas.psu.edu/pdfs/TaxFinance2009.pdf. Information on the estate planning sessions in Mercer County can be found at: http://rnrext.cas.psu.edu/pdfs/2009ForestEstatePlanningFinal.pdf.

The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800 234 9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 320 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry and USDA Forest Service, in Partnership with Penn State's Forest Resource Extension, sponsor the Forest Stewardship Program in Pennsylvania.

Written by: Michael Jacobson
Email: mgj2@psu.edu
Phone: 814-865-3994

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September 12th, 2009

Have you seen a butternut tree? USDA Forest Service seeks help from private landowners

Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.), also called white walnut, lemonnut or oil-nut, is a small- to medium-size tree, frequently 40 to 60 feet tall that seldom exceeds 75 years of age. It is native to the Northeastern quarter of the United States and the southern-most parts of Canada. As its name suggests, butternut is a member of the walnut family, and it produces a large, thick-shelled nut, typically 1 1/2 to 2 inches in length. The husk or hull of butternuts is yellow-green and covered with sticky hairs. The nut inside is usually football-shaped with a distinctly pointed end and four or eight prominent seams. The nutmeat is rich in oils and sweet; its flavor makes it a favorite of wildlife and those people lucky enough to find them and patient enough to crack them.

How can I identify butternut trees? Butternut leaves are similar in appearance to the common eastern black walnut, but there are several features that distinguish the two species. Butternut bark usually (but not always) has wide, somewhat shallow, smooth-topped ridges superimposed on darker fissures. Thus, but-ternut bark often appears shiny and gray, rather than the medium to dark color of walnut bark. Butternut twigs contain pith that is dark brown and chambered, and butternut twigs are often hairy in the spring and summer. The leaf scars of butternut (the point at which last year’s leaves were attached) are surmounted by a fringe of hairs that looks a bit like a moustache. Butternut terminal buds are hairy and pointed. Black walnut twigs have light-brown pith, the leaf scars have no hairs, and the terminal buds of walnut twigs are smooth and somewhat blunt. The hulls covering the nuts of a walnut tree are round and smooth, the hulls covering butter-nuts are football shaped or lemon shaped and covered with sticky hairs. Butternut is not the same as bitternut, which is a kind of hickory.

Why are butternuts becoming so uncommon? Over the last 40 years or so a fungal disease known as butternut canker has killed 80 to 90 per-cent of the butternut trees in the United States. Butternut canker is lethal and it spreads quickly. It has been found in every part of the butter-nut’s range. Most butternuts are highly susceptible to the disease, and all ages and size classes of trees can be infected. Infections appear first in the upper crown on one or two year old wood. These cankers are often elliptical in shape and slightly sunken. They will later develop an inky black center.

What is being done to conserve butternut? Butternut is a splendid, useful tree, and there is grave concern over the long-term genetic impact of this epidemic. For example, butternut is now extremely rare in the upper South, and butternut may be permanently lost from many of the mid-western stream sides and woodlands where it once thrived. For the past dozen years or so, scientists with the USDA Forest Service have been at-tempting to identify butternuts that are resistant to butternut canker. Their long-term goal is to breed disease-resistant, locally adapted varieties of butternut that can be used for reintroduction of the species to its former habitats.

We are happy to report there have been some important successes in the effort to conserve butternut. Several butternut trees have been identified that appear to have moderate to good levels of resistance to butternut canker, and the use of these trees for breeding is being investigated. Surprisingly, a common feature of these apparently more canker-resistant trees is their thick, often darkly-colored bark. Surveys have been undertaken by both State and Federal agencies to try to identify habitats in which butternut was once common so that the number and health of trees there can be monitored. These habitats are also candidates for butternut reintroduction in the future.

What can I do to help? Some butter-nut trees that survived the epidemic of butternut canker were isolated and escaped infection; other trees appear to have resistance to the disease. Because butternut is now so rare, it has been difficult for us to obtain samples of butternut from across its range—even foresters now often have trouble identifying butternut.

The Nature Conservancy is supporting a research effort to understand the genetics of butternut and has teamed up with Dr. Keith Woeste of the Hardwood Tree Improvement and Regeneration Center at Purdue University to learn more about how butternuts can be conserved and, eventually, restored. We are seeking the assistance of landowners around the country to help us identify the location of living (and especially healthy) butternut trees. We hope to obtain seeds from as many trees as possible in the coming year.

In addition, the Conservation Genetics lab of the HTIRC at Purdue University will test many of the samples of the butternut trees that are identified to determine their genetic history, how they are related to other samples, and their overall contribution to the genetic diversity of the species.

If you know of the location of a living butternut, please contact Dr. Keith Woeste using the contact numbers and addresses below.
Keith Woeste
U.S. Forest Service
Hardwood Tree Improvement and Regeneration Center Department of Forestry and Natural Resources
Pfendler Hall
Purdue University
715 West State Street
West Lafayette IN 47907-2061
web: http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/HTIRC/woeste.html
Phone: 765-496-6808
Article submitted by Dr Keith Woeste

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Woodlots and Boundary Lines

To put up a fence, I recently had my house lot surveyed. Now, I'm thinking a lot about the boundary lines delimiting what I own. My boundary lines weren't readily apparent; so, to prevent encroachment on my neighbors, I hired a professional surveyor to locate corners and help me identify my spot. On a larger scale, the property lines that define what a forest landowner owns are just as important. These lines define the acreage and are critically important at times of sale, timber harvest, easement development, and impact trespass and encroachment.

In the eastern United States, property boundaries were laid out on the metes and bounds system, relying on geologic and other natural features to define boundary lines and to serve as markers. A "metes" is a boundary determined by a straight line, specified by a distance and orientation between end points. "Bounds" indicates a more general boundary description such as along a watercourse or an existing roadway. Corners are permanent markers indicating a convergence of property lines. These are often iron pipes, rebar, rock piles, or monuments of other sorts. In the forested landscape, witness trees, most usually three, point to the corner marker with three vertical painted blazes indicating the direction to the monument. Sometimes a tree located directly on the corner will be painted with a large X.

With large (and small) acreages of forestland, corners are thousands of feet apart and not within line of sight. As a forest landowner, maintaining boundary lines is the best form of protection from trespass, encroachment, and sometimes timber theft, especially when activities are occurring on adjacent landowners’ properties.

As summer rolls on into fall, and forest landowners are looking for projects that don’t entail harvesting timber in a depressed market, boundary line maintenance is an annual or, at a minimum, every five years project.

The best time to start maintaining your property lines is just after completing a survey, usually at the time of property acquisition, but this is not always practical. Other options may be to identify/maintain a line along a recently surveyed or harvested adjoining property (assuming they know where the boundary is). If there is no recent survey, a landowner can find the location of property corners from a deed description, and then seek historic evidence (old fences, old blazes on trees) to re-identify lines. In the absence of clear indication of property lines, the best alternative is to retain a surveyor to identify and/or establish corners and mark lines for you. Always seek professional surveying advice if there are any doubts about a line’s location.

Blazes are the marks on trees that point to the property line. It involves scoring the bark with a machete or axe at eye level and painting. The score is deep enough to impact bark growth, but not so deep as to penetrate the cambial layer and cause a wound. The blaze is then painted to enhance visibility. Proper blazes last many decades and are common across forested landscapes. If ever you are repainting blazes, do not paint over old blazes -- repaint only the outer edges to make them more visible. Leave old blazes as supporting evidence of the original location of the property line.

Blazed trees should be close enough that the line is visible to the next tree along the line of sight in each direction, but not overly apparent (i.e., every tree on or close to the line does not need a blaze). For trees, just off the property line, a single painted blaze on the side facing the line is common. Trees occurring directly on line receive two blazes -- one of each side where the line goes "into" and "out of" the tree. Avoid marking any trees further than three feet from the line.

Some landowners like to leave a trail cleared of brush around their property lines. This facilitates the walking of the boundaries and maintenance of lines. Others prefer to draw less attention for aesthetic reasons. Regardless… Get to know your boundaries. It’s all part of being a good steward of your land.

The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800 234 9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 320 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry and USDA Forest Service, in Partnership with Penn State's Forest Resource Extension, sponsor the Forest Stewardship Program in Pennsylvania.

Contact: Allyson Muth
Phone: 814-865-3208
Email: abm173@psu.edu

Release No. 0369.09

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DEPUTY SECRETARY MERRIGAN ANNOUNCES FIRST NATIONAL SIGN-UP FOR NEW CONSERVATION STEWARDSHIP PROGRAM

Continuous Enrollment for Producers Begins Aug. 10

WASHINGTON, Aug. 6, 2009 – Agriculture Deputy Secretary Kathleen Merrigan today announced that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) will begin continuous sign-up for the new Conservation Stewardship Program (CSP) on August 10 with the first signup period cutoff scheduled for September 30. CSP is a voluntary program that encourages agricultural and forestry producers to maintain existing conservation activities and adopt additional ones on their operations.

"This program will help the Nation's agricultural and forestry producers reach greater levels of conservation performance, which will help protect our land and water," Merrigan said. "The conservation benefits derived from maintaining and enhancing natural resources will improve the quality of soil and water, assist in addressing global climate change, and encourage environmentally responsible energy production."

The Food, Conservation, and Energy Act of 2008 (2008 Farm Bill) authorizes CSP. Congress renamed and revamped the former Conservation Security Program completely to improve its availability and appeal to agricultural and forestry producers. USDA's Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) administers CSP. Eligible lands include cropland, grassland, prairie, improved pastureland, rangeland, non-industrial private forestland—a new land use for the program—and agricultural land under the jurisdiction of an Indian tribe.

Eligible applicants may include individual landowners, legal entities, and Indian tribes. The program will be offered to producers in all 50 states, District of Columbia and the Pacific and Caribbean areas through continuous sign-ups. Agricultural and forestry producers must submit applications by Sept. 30 to be considered for funding in the first ranking period. Congress capped the annual acreage enrollment at 12,769,000 acres for each fiscal year nationwide.

To apply for the newly revamped CSP, potential participants will be encouraged to use a self-screening checklist first to determine whether the new program is suitable for them or their operation. It will be available on NRCS Web sites and at NRCS field offices. After self-screening, the producer's current and proposed conservation practices are entered in the conservation measurement tool (CMT). This tool estimates the level of environmental performance to be achieved by a producer implementing and maintaining conservation activity. The conservation performance estimated by the CMT will be used to rank applications. States will determine their own priority resource concerns, one of the criteria that will be used to rank applications. States will establish ranking pools to rank applications with similar resource concerns.

NRCS field staff also will conduct on-site field verifications of applicants' information obtained from the CMT. Once the potential participant has been field verified and approved for funding, he or she must develop a conservation stewardship plan.

For information about CSP, including eligibility requirements, producers can visit www.nrcs.usda.gov/new_csp or visit their local NRCS field office.

USDA is finalizing the program's policies and procedures. The CSP interim final rule, published in the Federal Register, is open for public comment through Sept. 28. #

USDA is an equal opportunity provider, employer and lender. To file a complaint of discrimination, write: USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call (800) 795-3272(voice), or (202) 720-6382 (TDD).

June 26, 2009

Enhancing the Experience of Your Woods

What do you like best about being in the woods? What do you remember? Think about it for a moment. You might enjoy the quiet, the peacefulness, the calm of nature. You might enjoy surprises -- the tree you did not see before, the little red toadstool, the glint of water on an unfolding fern frond. After thinking about what you like best, think about memorable forest walks or a special day afield. Do they often involve the unexpected, the glimpse of a fleeing animal, the quiet place, or a view that looks different today than yesterday?

Likely when you are in the woods, you are really looking for the unexpected, the little surprises of beauty, difference, and change. Understanding this, it is possible to manage for and emphasize the unexpected.

Woods have many dimensions. They vary from the ground level to the tops of the trees. They vary from here to there, as you walk through the landscape. And, they vary by time, throughout the day and across the seasons. All this change has the potential to add variety and discovery to the woods.

Can you create a level of discovery? Yes, as you walk down a forest path or woods road, you look ahead, almost anticipating the unexpected. The turn in the path or the bend in the road often obscures our view of what is ahead. What is around the corner? What might be there that will be suddenly seen? The simple act of building a path or aligning a woods road carefully today can provide years of enjoyment tomorrow. Building roads and paths to include turns, places to crest little rises, or using obstructions to block views can create interest and build in surprises. Have you ever taken the turn and seen that fleeing animal, the bird resting on the limb, or the change in light?

Forests inspire grandeur. Entering a woods, our eyes often lift to the forest ceiling. Looking up we marvel at the height; we enjoy the swaying and dancing canopy, the flickering light. Everyone seems to enjoy big trees -- they inspire. However, the solitude of a woods is also enjoyed when the trees close in around you. There is sanctuary in the feeling of protection, a grotto where the ceiling closes in and the walls are closer. One of my favorite places is a tight little stand of white pine and hemlock where trees are young, short, and close. It is a dark place on the edges, but in the center, the light enters from above. In gardens, we often create such places under the sweeping low branches of trees or under arbors of vines. Cutting an opening in the woods and allowing it to fill with small trees can create a special quiet place.

While we love to see the tall big trees reaching to the sky -- they represent growth; however, that giant lying on the forest floor can provide hours of inspection and discovery. In a forest dead trees and plants represent a reserve of nutrients -- unique habitat for many species of insects, fungi, amphibians, reptiles, animals and plants. Many of our woods do not have sufficient large, dead, and standing or down woody debris. Ecologists are learning big dead trees add to biodiversity and a careful observer learns they add to the interest of forests. A log torn asunder by a passing bear looking for a spring snack might stop you in your tracks, but also bring excitement and anticipation to the next walk in the woods. Maybe the next time, you will see something exciting near the log. Woods are often more interesting if we can leave them a bit more messy -- not everything needs to produce products.

A diversity of plants in the woods adds to the experience. Learning the names of plants and other components in the woods adds interest and leads to discovery. Psychologists tell us we appreciate things more when we know what they are called. When you find an unexpected plant in the woods, making the effort to learn its name is fun and rewarding. The unique and unfamiliar plants are often very special. When you walk in the woods look up, down, and all around to learn how the woods changes in the seasons – just a few weeks ago, the spring flowers were in bloom and in full leaf. Now, the flowers are gone, the leaves are dying, and the fruit may be apparent. Knowing how things change heightens our interest in the woods.

As you walk through your woods or the woods of others, take the time to walk slowly, look for the interesting things that surround you. Share your discoveries with others -- especially kids; open your eyes to see the surprises. If you care for the woods, think about how careful stewardship will conserve opportunities for those who follow to enjoy the place as you have enjoyed.

To learn more about discovery in your woods, request Forest Stewardship Bulletin No. 8, Planning for Beauty and Enjoyment, from the Forest Resources Extension Office.

The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800 234 9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 320 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry and USDA Forest Service, in Partnership with Penn State's Forest Resource Extension, sponsor the Forest Stewardship Program in Pennsylvania.

Written by: Jim Finley
Phone: 814-863-0401
Email: fj4@psu.edu

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A Thief in the Woods at Night

Many forest owners already know what it's like to lose trees to theft. Usually we come across the evidence long after the fact and can do little about it other than make a report to local or state police. Too often nothing is ever done about it. This article is about finding one thief still at work and what you can do about it.

The porcupine is North America's 2nd largest rodent and can do an amazing amount of damage in both coniferous and deciduous forests. Many of us have seen porcupines, if only their remains along roadsides. Few get to see them active; mostly we just see the results of their activities. Porcupines are easy to recognize. They have dark brown fur, covered with as many as 30,000 thick barbed quills! The tip of each quill has microscopic barbs or hooks that drive ever increasingly deeper into the flesh of unlucky predators. Porcupines eat the inner bark of many types of trees and bushes and have large orange teeth and strong jaws, just right for their rough, fibrous diet. They also munch on foliage, twigs, fruits, nuts, berries, and flowers. They even gnaw on deer and elk antlers to get calcium. Porcupines can do a lot of damage in forested stands as their munching can girdle trees and ultimately kill them. They are mostly nocturnal but will forage in the day, and under the right conditions can live between 10 and 20 years

Porcupines love wood piles left around log landings and gas wells. These piles of stumps, logs, limbs and dirt are considered excellent den sites, making the “porkers” hard to find or remove from fortified dens. Keep this in mind when negotiating contracts for gas well drilling or logging on your property. Plan to minimize or eliminate these potential future homes to prevent extensive damage to your trees. These sites are especially favored during winter when the cold weather isn’t as appealing as hanging in the trees throughout the day. Because of their slow methodical movement at night, they don’t venture far from chosen den sites.

In the mid-1990s, the Pennsylvania Game Commission, working with Penn State's School of Forest Resources, undertook a research project to reintroduce fisher to our forests. Fishers are the second largest North American member of the weasel family and are one of the few natural enemies of porcupine. The successful reintroduction of the extirpated fisher could help reduce some "porker" damage.

There are a few things you can do to control porcupine damage. If only a few trees are targeted, sheet metal sleeves placed around the trunks prevent porcupines from climbing. The sheet metal should fully enclose the tree base and extend up the tree about 20-30 inches. To avoid causing further damage to the tree, be sure to remove this metal guard as soon as the animal has moved on. It is possible to live trap and remove porcupines. Be sure to use large size live traps to accommodate their large body size. Apples are good bait. Put apple wedges inside and outside the trap to lure them into the trap. If you catch one, move it at least 10 miles away to frustrate its return. While trapping seems very humane, you may well be passing your problem on to another forest owner who will have to deal with the new resident. The last resort is to destroy the animal to prevent tree and crop damage.

Many forest owners grow trees as a "nest egg" for their future; perhaps, to finance their retirement, to build a "dream home" later in life or as a legacy to their children. We know many forest owners produce and conserve wildlife habitat. Having a renewable resource growing on your own land can be a good feeling as it is increasing in value over time. Those with timber stands and those who work to manage timber already know it takes time to grow forest value.

Porcupine damage can be extensive. To resolve the problem takes time and effort. Consider "porkers" part of your forest environment. Tolerate some damage, but when it exceeds your tolerance, know there are things you can do to stop the theft of your forest's future value.

The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management for private landowners. For a list of free publications, call 1-800-235-9473 (toll-free), send e-mail to rnrext@psu.edu, or write to: Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 320 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry and USDA Forest Service, in partnership with the Penn State's Forest Resources Extension, sponsor the Forest Stewardship Program in Pennsylvania.

Written by: Denny Nebgen
Email: dennybob@windstream.net

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Trees from Cuttings
By Ty Ryen
Service Forester
DCNR, Bureau of Forestry

It is that time of year again. Landowner’s should have made and started to put into action their plans for spring tree planting. Over the last couple months I have received some interesting questions that reflect the influences of these challenging economic times. Where is a good place to gather tree seeds? How do I start my trees from seed? What is stratification? People are trying to cut their planting costs and still practice good forestry. It was surprising to me how many people had no idea what I was talking about when I asked them if they had ever considered doing cuttings instead.

As a youth I can remember thinking of my grandmother as amazing doing her annual spring ritual of taking rose cuttings and placing them under a mason jar to create an entirely new rose bush. I guess being reared on a small Pennsylvania farm and being exposed to practices like grafting fruit trees and growing cuttings from flowers and fruit trees left me with the notion that everyone has been exposed to those practices.

Most people are familiar with growing new plants from seeds, but new plants can also be created by cutting off a portion of an established plant. Propagation from cuttings involves removing certain parts of a living plant and putting them into a growing medium that encourages the “parts” to form new roots or foliage. Cuttings are a good way to obtain new plants, and often create usable plants more rapidly than from seeds.

Cuttings can offer several advantages over planting from seed. Propagating a new plant using cuttings avoids some of the difficulties of propagating by seed. For example, some seeds are difficult to germinate, often take a couple years for the seedling to appear. A new plant grown from a cutting will often mature faster and flower sooner than a plant grown from a seed.

The main types of stem cutting are herbaceous, softwood, and hardwood. Dogwoods, willows, and aspen are good examples of hardwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings should be taken from dormant, mature stems in late fall, winter or very early spring before any growth has started. Plants need to be completely dormant for this practice to be successful. This does not happen until you’ve experienced a good hard freeze with temperatures have dipped down below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Here in Northwestern Pennsylvania this generally occurs after mid-November.

Make all cuts just above a leaf node (where the leaf comes out of the stem) so you don’t get a lot of stem dieback. The stem should be about the thickness of a pencil. Hardwood cuttings tend to be long, about 6-12 inches, compared to softwood cuttings, about 3 inches. Cut the bottom of the hardwood cutting at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node. To avoid confusing the bottom with the top of your cutting, cut the top straight across at a 90 degree angle. If you don’t make sure to keep the cutting the right side up, it will not root or survive if it goes in upside-down.

If you collect cuttings in the early spring and decide to plant them at that time; treating them with rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Before planting, treat the bottom inch or the cutting with rooting hormone. Rooting hormone can be obtained at most garden centers. Always be sure to carefully read and follow label directions. Some species, such as willows, do not require rooting hormone. The success rate for a lot of species will improve with rooting hormone and some species just don’t seem to root without it.

If you are doing hardwood cuttings that you are not going to plant right away; you’ll have to store them for winter to keep them alive. Store the cuttings, bundled together and fastened with rubber bands, in a container (box/pot/cold frame) and cover with slightly moist vermiculite, sawdust, or sand. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight and keep the cuttings cool. Be sure to plant the cuttings with the top or straight-cut ends up, deep enough so that only one or two of the nodes stick out above the rooting medium.

Rooting time varies with the species being rooted as well as environmental conditions. Once rooted, the cuttings may be left in the rooting structure until spring. Over winter the buds will begin to develop and will be quite tender when you dig them up. It is best to wait till the threat of frost has passed before moving them. Newly rooting cuttings should not get transplanted directly into the landscape. Instead you will want to transplant them to outside containers or into an outside bed that is protected from wind and direct sunlight.

Water them on a regular basis; be careful not to over water them. About 1 inch per week is usually sufficient, unless the summer weather is extremely hot and dry. By fall, the cuttings that have survived should be well rooted. They will be ready to transplant into the landscape on your property early next spring before they break dormancy.

When transplanting into the landscape remember, that as with more traditional planting, weed control and maintenance is still essential for good survival and growth. Work with your county service forester or consultant for the best method. Site preparation is just as essential for planting cuttings as it is for conventional plantings. Weeds and grass must be controlled prior to planting and must be maintained for several years after planting. If you are transplanting certain species of hardwood cuttings you will need to use tree shelters or fencing to protect your new transplants from deer and other animal browse. This will call for a certain amount of maintenance to get the most effective protection.

As with many concerns in natural resources management, the decision to plant seedlings, direct seed, or use cuttings is a decision based solely on the landowner’s objectives, time, and available resources. The choice to establish new plantings either by using cuttings or direct seeding may be a desirable and economically attractive alternative to traditional seedling planting. To make this decision, you must carefully evaluate your options and educate yourself so that you can make the best decision to reach your woodlot goals. Ultimately, the decision is yours to make. Since there are so many challenges and options, you will want to seek professional advice and carefully base your decisions on your own individual situation.

For Further Reading

• Bryant, G. 2003. Plant Propagation A to Z-Growing Plants for Free. Firefly Books: Buffalo, New York.
• Dirr, M.A. and C.W. Heuser, Jr. 1987. The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: from Seed to Tissue Culture. Varsity Press: Athens, Georgia.
• Hartmann, H.T., D.E. Kester, F.T. Davies Jr., and R.L. Geneve. 2002. Hartmann and Kester’s plant propagation: principles and practices. Prentice Hall: Upper Saddle River, New Jersey.
• Toogood, A. 1999. American Horticultural society Plant Propagation: The Fully Illustrated Plant-by-Plant Manual of Practical Techniques. DK Publishing: New York, New York.

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Managing Forest Vegetation

June 2008

There is a lot of work involved with properly managing your woodlot. Maintaining roads, controlling grape vines, timber stand improvement operations, etc. all require a strong commitment of time and resources from the landowner to make sure the tasks get done. One of the most important tasks is also one that is often overlooked or gets pushed to the bottom of list. That is controlling unwanted forest vegetation.

Often times people do not think of certain species as being unwanted. Unwanted forest vegetation can come in many forms. Many native plants of Pennsylvania can become unwanted vegetation in a forest setting. A few examples of native plants that can create forest management nightmares include: mountain laurel, ferns, striped maple, and even grasses. These are all native plants and can become a hindrance to forest regeneration if not controlled.

Mountain laurel can form very dense thickets that will shade any regeneration that may be attempting to grow on the forest floor. While this can provide some very good escape cover for animals like deer and grouse, it can become a real problem if forest regeneration is your goal. Striped maple grows very well in the shady understory conditions of forests and deer do not browse on it much. The result is an undesirable tree species with little wildlife value that shades out regeneration on the forest floor.

Ferns can be come a serious problem seemingly over night, especially if there has been a thinning operation in your forest. The hay-scented fern is the most common problem fern in Pennsylvania. This plant is not eaten by deer and not only spreads by spores but also by sending up fronds from their extensive root system causing it to spread even faster. These ferns can form a very dense cover virtually eliminating light from the forest floor and severely hindering regeneration.

There are many non-native invasive plant species as well. A few examples of these include: Ailanthus, Japanese barberry, multiflora rose, and mile-a-minute vine. There are many more non-native invasive plants invading Pennsylvania as well. As good stewards of the forest, attention should be given to these plants to prevent them from becoming a bigger problem than they already are.

If you do not currently have a problem with unwanted forest vegetation, your job will be a little easier. The key is to catch these invasive plants early and deal with them as soon as possible.

On a recent hunting trip to my property in Adams County, I found one Japanese barberry bush growing. On my next trip down I plan to make time to address that issue before it spreads any further. As is often the case, we found several plants on an adjacent property which is most likely where my plant came from. I will be notifying the foresters for that property and hopefully they will address the issue. The point is that I caught it early and it will be no problem getting rid of one plant.

Educate yourself on properly identifying these plants. This can seem like a daunting task when you look at the list of invasive plants in Pennsylvania. Familiarize yourself with a few of the more common plants first. Multiflora rose, ailanthus, Japanese barberry, Russian olive, etc may be a good place to start.

More importantly is to get to know your woods intimately. Take the time to learn how to identify the plants that are currently on your property. When something different shows up make the effort to properly ID that plant as well. If it turns out to be an invasive plant, you will have caught it early.

If you find out you have a major problem with an invasive plant, you will have more work and possibly money involved to alleviate the problem. You may not be able to get rid of it all in one season. You may need to hire professional help to get rid of the problem but it will be worth the time and effort for the long term health of your woods. Applying herbicides is one way to effectively control a large outbreak of unwanted plant species.

Here are a few guidelines to be considered when using herbicides.

1. Make sure you have the proper license to apply the chemical if it is needed.

2. Use the herbicide that is most effective at controlling the target species.

3. Use the herbicide at the lowest labeled rate that will give optimum control.

4. Follow prescribed application methods on label.

5. Apply herbicide at optimum time of year.

6. Follow all label precautions.

Be patient; allow time for the herbicide to work. Results may not be evident until the following growing season.

Penn State has a publication titled “Herbicide and Forest Management: Controlling unwanted trees, Brush, and Other Competing Forest Vegetation”. It provides information on choosing the right forestry herbicide and application methods as well as safety considerations that must be taken into account. You can get a copy by contacting your local extension office. Penn State also has a forest vegetation management website that contains a wealth of information and links to many other sources of information. That website is: http://fvm.cas.psu.edu/

For a list of the many invasive species in Pennsylvania go to the following DCNR web page: http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/invasivetutorial/List.htm. This web page includes recommendations for control as well as fact sheets with pictures of the plants to help with identification.

By Scott Weikert Forest County Extension Educator

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Chain Saw Safety: Choose Well, Prepare Well, Use Well

It may not be lions, tigers and bears one needs to have a healthy fear of when venturing out to the forests and fields to harvest wood. Folks create their own dangers with inappropriate use of chain saws and tractors for cutting, pulling, and hauling. There are plenty of dangers associated with chain saws and tractors. To truly commit to not risking your own limbs and life or anyone else’s, read equipment manuals. In the mean time, here are some reminders.

Chain saws are grouped into three general sizes based on the weight and the length of the guidebar (the guide tract for the cutting chain). If felling trees 12 to 18 inches in diameter and cutting logs, choose a mid-weight saw with a guide bar of 14 – 20 inches. Make sure it feels balanced in your hands. It should go without saying (but it seems we have to anyway) that choosing a saw with all the safety features (and maintaining them) is in everyone’s best interests. A blue label on newer chain saws indicates that they meet low kickback standards.

Choosing a good saw is not the only choice to make. Buy and use good personal protective equipment as well. There are pants, chaps, gloves and boots made with chain saw protective fabric. Steel-toed boots are a must. Non-skid material is useful on the bottom of boots as well as on the palms of the gloves. Complete your gear with a hardhat, safety glasses with side shields and earplugs or muffs (unless using an electric saw), and you are set to go.

Actually, you are set to go only if you have properly prepared the saw and the site. A smooth running saw is a safer saw. Maintain, maintain, maintain. Most machines need to be well lubricated to run well. Know if your chain saw has an automatic oiler and how to use it. Never use reclaimed oil as it doesn’t lubricate well and corrodes the pump. Loose chains fall off; tight chains bind and over heat. Dull chains make a burned smell, crooked cuts and sawdust rather than chips. Learn how to correctly sharpen the saw and carry extra chains into the field. While you are preparing for the field, think about what to take with you beside lunch. A good first aid kit, tool kit, and fire extinguisher are important.

Preparing at the site entails looking for the hazards. Attached vines, leaning trees, young trees pinned by a fallen tree (these can spring when the weight is released), obstacles in the area if you have to get out of the way, utility lines, and heavy branches in the crown are just the beginning. Dead trees lack structural integrity causing pieces to break off. Examine any tree under pressure to get a fix on the direction of that pressure. With care, you can make small cuts to release pressure in a section. “Widow-maker” isn’t just a quaint and clever term for dead branches in the crown of a tree; these pose real danger. Finally, you may need to check for nails and wire in some trees to avoid kickback. Preplan an escape route that is 45 degrees from the direction of the falling tree with no hazards in your path. Have any other people move to at least two tree lengths distance away before you cut.

Always carry the chain saw with the engine turned off. Start it with two hands on the ground. Do not “drop start” a chain saw as you can not maintain control of the machine.

Keep your cuts below shoulder height; it is too difficult to keep full control of the machine with it raised high Working with sharp implements sometimes seems to dull one’s commonsense— otherwise folks wouldn’t stand on the log they are cutting, hold the chainsaw between their legs to make a cut, or straddle limbs while making a cut. Always stand completely to the side of where you are cutting.

The kickback from a chain saw can cut through skin, muscle, and bone, in a matter of seconds, enough to put you in the hospital or the morgue. Kick back is caused when the tip of the guide bar touches an object, by incorrectly starting a bore cut by using the tip of the saw, when the blade nose or tip catches the bottom or side of a saw cut during reinsertion, and when a chain saw gets pinched while cutting. While tip guards, chainbreaks and kickback guards are valuable in controlling kickback, the most important precaution is to know how to use the saw correctly and to take your time.

Tractors in the Woods

Gathering wood might seem like an ideal time for using that old tractor without a ROPS (rollover protection structure) and poorly adjusted brakes. But it’s not! Every year we have one or more fatalities in Pennsylvania involving a tractor in the woods. Trees or large limbs have crushed operators sitting in the tractor seat because the operator was trying to pull or push a tree, tractors have gone out of control while descending hills and slopes because of poor brakes, and tractors have flipped over backwards while pulling a tree down or dragging logs that catch and stop moving. If you have to use a farm tractor in the woods, it should have an enclosed ROPS cab, and safety practices such as using a seat belt, hitching only to the drawbar, and no extra riders should be strictly followed.

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Top Ten Timber Harvesting Mistakes
By Dan Snyder, DCNR Bureau of Forestry

#1 Diameter Limit Cutting (High Grading)!
Diameter limit harvests (i.e., cutting all trees above a set diameter) are common because they provide an easy way to describe trees for cutting. Because they tend to remove the larger, more valuable trees, they also provide a high (albeit one-time) economic gain. Diameter limit harvests are a form of high-grading that “takes the best and leaves the rest.” Cutting using these approaches is particularly damaging in the hardwood-dominated forests like those in Pennsylvania. Diameter limit cutting seems to make sense as way to remove the larger “older” trees, and leave the smaller “younger” trees to grow. However, in even-aged stands (which we have a lot of in Pennsylvania due to historic cutting patterns), the smaller trees are not necessarily younger, just slower growing. Frequently these smaller trees are genetically inferior, damaged, or less vigorous species. They are often not the trees you want growing into the next generation. For example: a suppressed hemlock sapling, one inch in diameter, may be 60-80 years old. A healthy black cherry, 16 inches in diameter, may be the same age. Which “young” tree do you want left growing in your woods?

#2 No management plan!
A forest management plan can supply you with the information you need to make sound forest management decisions. Plans vary in detail, ranging from very detailed plans to short and concise. The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program can provide cost-share support for you to develop a plan. You must have at least five acres or less than 1,000 acres of forestland. Waivers for larger owners (up to 5,000 acres) are available through the USDA Forest Service. Developing a plan with the assistance of a Bureau of Forestry service forester and at least one Forest Stewardshiptrained natural resource professional will help you learn about your forest’s resources and how you can maintain and improve them. You can learn how to manage for wildlife, recreation, aesthetics, or timber production. At a minimum, your management plan should contain detailed property descriptions (including property history), map(s), and management activity prescriptions specific for your property. Only after a careful review and analysis of your property can you make sustainable decisions about managing or selling your trees. NEVER be pressured into making quick cutting choices. From a tree’s perspective, there is usually no rush to make a quick decision.

#3 Not using a forester to represent the landowner!
Studies show that 80% of the timber harvests on private forests do not involve a forester representing the forest owner in the sale. Failure to involve a forester in your timber sale decisions can have consequences. Often times, the decision can result in less income and potentially unsustainable outcomes.

Consulting foresters representing the landowner work for a fee, and studies show that they can increase sale income by marking and marketing your trees – their services can greatly help simplify timber selling. A professional forester’s knowledge can help to retain or improve your woodland’s productivity, as well as maintain wildlife habitats, and control erosion by planning logging road and trail layout.

#4 Trees to be sold are not marked! Marking the trees you want to sell or retain would seem like an obvious step in selling timber. Surprisingly, many sales occur without marking or a clear understanding of which trees will be cut. Setting a diameter limit, as discussed in #1 above, is not a good way to designate trees to cut. Without a clear understanding of what to take or leave, it is nearly impossible to establish a fair price, as you have no way of knowing how much volume, and thus value, you are selling. A timber harvesting plan and the resulting prospectus advertising trees for sale should indicate the species, diameter, and number of 16-foot logs offered. This information allows prospective buyers to estimate the timber volume for sale and make appropriate bids.

#5 No knowledge of timber value! Unless you are intimately acquainted with timber markets (both overseas and domestic), with experience in timber scaling, including defect estimation, it is very unlikely you can estimate the value of your standing timber yourself. Timber prices vary with furniture, housing, and overseas markets. In addition, it is unlikely that many forest owners can understand logging costs, access issues, and local competition for standing timber. A professional forester will be your biggest ally in determining timber value.

#6 No competitive bidding! If you talk to only one person about selling your timber, will you know whether or not you are getting a true representation of value? Studies show that knowing what you have to sell and offering it through a competitive bidding process will often secure the best price. Who would sell a house or car without knowing the value and trying to find the buyer willing to pay the price? Taking the time to find the right buyer can pay dividends. If people are approaching you to buy, you likely have something to sell.

#7 No erosion and sedimentation plan or provisions! In Pennsylvania, all earthmoving or earth disturbing activities must have an Erosion and Sedimentation (E&S) Control Plan. By law the plan must be implemented and effective. Soil cannot leave the property. Ultimately landowners have the responsibility to ensure that activities on their property do not degrade water quality.

An E&S plan must identify threats to water quality and describe specific steps to address these issues. As part of the timber sale contract, responsibility for developing and implementing the E&S Plan can be transferred to the buyer. The buyer, the landowner, or a designee can prepare the plan.

#8 Selling on “percentage” or “shares” (For example, 50/50 or 60/40)! Unless you or your designee can follow every truckload of logs that leaves your property, and can assure that the buyer tallies and pays for the volume, you are at risk. Ideally, you should know what you are selling, bid it competitively, and receive payment before cutting any trees. However, there may be tax advantages to retaining economic interest in your trees until they are cut and removed from the property. Check with your forester or tax advisor about this tax issue.

#9 No reimbursement for excessive timber damage! Your contract with the buyer should clearly state penalties for excessive damage to standing residual trees and other property. It is often a good idea to require a performance deposit to ensure that contract terms and requirements are met. The performance deposit is a payment over and above the selling price, held in escrow until sale termination. A certain amount of residual stand damage is to be expected during the harvest. Trained and responsible loggers will take care to minimize such damage.

#10 No contract! A contract is one of the most important elements leading to a successful and profitable timber sale. The contract describes the who, what, where, when, how, and for how long language relating to your sale. The contract does not have to be long or technical, merely thorough and accurate. The contract should name the seller, the buyer, the location of the sale, how much is sold, and the length of the agreement. It should cover the seller’s responsibilities such as guarantee of ownership, rightof- way across the property to the buyer and his agents, and a clause for changing the contract elements if the modification does not alter the basic principles of the contract. The buyer’s responsibilities are more involved and include: payment schedule, excessive residual stand damage penalties, fire protection (prevention and suppression), repair to existing fences damaged during the harvest, bridges, culverts, and roads, operating sequence, performance deposit, road construction, landing construction, voluntary shut down, mandatory shut down, and implementation of the Erosion and Sedimentation Control Plan. Landowners must also realize that should they instruct the buyer to leave stream crossing measures in place, they (the landowners) are responsible for the maintenance and upkeep.

Things to Remember When Selling Your Timber
Don’t be hasty to sell your timber. Take the time to collect and analyze as much information as you can. As far as trees are concerned there is usually no rush to make a quick decision, so don’t be pressured into doing so. Know what you are selling, bid it out to determine the market value, and negotiate a contract that protects your interests.

The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry has field offices responsible for all of Pennsylvania. Service Foresters can offer advice about selling your timber, and provide additional information. They cannot, except in uncommon circumstances, mark your timber.

If you have timber you want to sell, consider contacting a consulting forester. These professional foresters will help you determine your objectives and mark timber in accordance with your objectives. They have experience, lists of potential buyers, and can negotiate and prepare a good sale contract. Consulting foresters most often work on a commission when selling timber.

One last thought, when you are selling timber, you want the best advice you can obtain, and you can benefit by having a representative concerned about your objectives and the longterm sustainability of your forest working with you.

Taken from Summer 2007 Forest Leaves.