Personal Items Needed 1 cup,1 small bowl,1 spoon,fork optional toothbrush & paste (small),deodorant,any required medicine small personal first aid kit,with moleskin small flashlight(headlamp is good),safety whistle,compass 1 poncho or ground cloth 2 large garbage bags 2 32oz plastic water bottles (1 is to have a X marked on it) the 1 without the X should have scouts name on it. Gatorade bottles work good but make sure they are marked. 1 sleeping bag wrapped in a plastic bag (if you do not have a synthetic bag wrap it up in 2 bags,don't take a chance of getting it wet. If it should get wet you will have extra weight to carry and a very cold night!) Clothing 1 pair of hiking boats (no tennis shoes) 4 pair of socks wool or synthetic (no cotton) 1 toboggan,1 pair gloves (wool or synthetic) 1 pair of zip-off pants (the new scout pants are great) 1 scout shirt (scouts are to wear uniform on all outings while traveling to and from) 1 pair of under wear (use past experience if more is needed) 1 fleece pullover or equivalent (remember no cotton hoodys) 1 pair of insulated under garments (top & bottom) 1light weight rain suit (top & bottom) No matter what the weather forecast is plan for a 20 to 30 deg night. The best way to do this is to plan on layering up with the clothes you have with you. Adapt a mind set that every thing you have with you has at least 2 uses,such as rain coat or wind breaker,gloves or hot pot mitts,etc. This list was compiled for an average 3 season weekend trip. If colder weather is a possibility you will have to adjust accordingly. Please do not send snacks for the hike. All food will be provided and sorted out before the start of the trip. Please keep in mind that ALL FOOD must be placed in a bear bag at night this includes toothpaste so label your things in advance. The list provided is the essential items required to go on this trip. If you feel the need to bring more,WELL IT IS YOUR BACK. Don't pack a lot of extra things and then expect some one else to carry it out. The phrase PACK IT IN PACK IT OUT has more than 1 meaning. Pack Weight Formula To determine the correct weight for your pack: take your weight {say 100lbs} times .25% = 25 lbs – 5 lbs = 20 lbs. (The 5 lbs in the formula you subtracted , represents your share of the groups gear such as tent,food,pots etc.)Your pack should weigh no more than 20 lbs. (Keep in mind this includes 2 32oz bottles of water.) This is not a exact formula but if you stay real close to it you will make it on the hike with energy to spare. Special Tip Try loading your pack and keep weighting it,as you find out the weight take each item out and evaluate the need to take a certain item, Keep doing this until you have eliminated all items not absolutely needed. This has 2 purposes 1 it cuts weight down and 2nd you become very familiar with you gear and were it is kept in the pack. Get ready and hit the trail BCH

COLD WEATHER CAMPING TIPS

ATTENTION PARENTS: During the next few months the Troop will be cold weather camping in tents. While this presents additional challenges and safety concerns, these can also be some of the more memorable outdoor experiences for our Scouts. By following some common-sense precautions, your Scout(s) can participate in these adventures with relative comfort and safety. You are encouraged to read the following sections carefully as you help your son(s) prepare for these activities. COLD WEATHER CONCERNS In addition to the “normal” safety concerns associated with camping and outdoor activities, cold weather camping involves the potential risk of “exposure” or hypothermia – a lowering of the body’s inner core temperature. Hypothermia can occur from sudden immersion in water (e.g. falling into a stream or lake), but can also arise through normal outdoor activity. Hypothermia can occur in temperatures as warm as 50° or 60° F. Dehydration, another common problem with cold weather camping, can contribute to the onset of hypothermia. Several factors may pre-dispose an individual to hypothermia, including: · Poor physical condition · Inadequate nutrition and water intake · Inadequate protection from wind, rain and snow · Getting wet (rain, drizzle, snow, excessive perspiration) · Inadequate protective clothing · Fatigue / exhaustion Symptoms of hypothermia include: · Fatigue, drowsiness · Poor judgement, irrationality · Severe and uncontrollable shivering · The “-umbles” – Stumbles ((loss of coordination)), Mumbles ((slurred or thickness of speech)), and Grumbles ((change in disposition – grumpy)) The best prevention for hypothermia is planning and preparation! The most important thing is to KEEP DRY. Moisture will reduce the insulating properties of almost everything. Remember to follow these simple rules: C – Keep body and clothes CLEAN O – Avoid OVERHEATING L – Wear clothing that is LOOSE and in LAYERS D – Keep DRY! By following the suggestions below, cold weather camping activities can be enjoyed and provide an exciting sense of accomplishment for your Scout. BSA TROOP 141 - Cold Weather Camping Tips [Cold Weather Camping Tips.doc] Page 2 Revised: January 16, 2003 CLOTHING · LAYER YOUR CLOTHING. Wear several layers of lighter clothing rather than a single layer of heavy clothing. Use layers to regulate your temperature – when getting too warm, loosen or remove a layer; when feeling a chill add a layer. · KEEP DRY – both from the weather and from perspiration. · WEAR LOOSE FITTING CLOTHES. You keep warm by maintaining a thin layer of warm air around the body. Loose layers provide the necessary insulation to trap pockets of air, and allow proper circulation. · WEAR WINTER BOOTS – NO SNEAKERS!! Your feet need proper insulation too! · BRING EXTRA SOCKS! It may be necessary to change your socks several times during the day – lunch, dinner, etc. Keeping your feet dry is critical to health and comfort! Wearing an extra pair of socks can also help with insulation. · WEAR WOOL. Cotton looses its insulating value when wet. Wool and many synthetic fibers, however, will continue to provide insulation even when wet. THIS INCLUDES DENIM JEANS – THESE ARE COTTON TOO!! · WEAR MITTENS INSTEAD OF GLOVES. Mittens allow the individual fingers to warm each other. In some cases, it may be advisable to wear thin gloves inside of an outer mitten. · WEAR A WOOL CAP WHICH COVERS THE EARS. Most heat loss is through the head and neck – 50% at 40° and 75% at 15°F! Turtlenecks and scarves covering the neck are also important. Consider also a ski mask which covers the face (cheeks, nose, forehead, etc.) · IF PROPERLY DRESSED, A FIRE IS NOT NECESSARY TO KEEP WARM! If heat from the fire can get in, so too can the cold! · RAIN GEAR KEEPS MOISTURE OUT, BUT ALSO TRAPS PERSPIRATION. If you must wear rain gear, be prepared to change your inner layers after perspiring. SLEEPING · A GOOD WINTER WEIGHT BAG IS ESSENTIAL! Sleeping Bags rated at 15° F or below are recommended. If necessary, double-up two bags (putting one lightweight bag inside another). · MUMMY STYLE BAGS ARE GENERALLY WARMER THAN RECTANGULAR BAGS. This is because there is less “dead air” space to warm. · NATURAL FIBER BAGS (INCLUDING GOOSE-DOWN) LOOSE INSULATING PROPERTIES WHEN WET. Synthetic fibers are less susceptible to this problem. · DRESS FOR SLEEP AS YOU WOULD DRESS FOR THE OUTDOORS – IN LAYERS. When bedding down for the night, make sure you have CLEAN, DRY Socks, sweat pants, t-shirt and loose fitting sweatshirt, and wool cap. · CONSIDER USING A TOWEL AROUND YOUR NECK AT NIGHT. This acts like a scarf and helps absorb perspiration around your head. It may also be helpful to wrap your feet in a bath towel as added insulation and to absorb foot perspiration. · BRING AN EXTRA (WOOL) BLANKET OR TWO. These can be used as further insulation over or under your bag, inside your bag, or around your shoulders for added insulation. A blanket can also be wrapped around your feet inside your bag. BSA TROOP 141 - Cold Weather Camping Tips [Cold Weather Camping Tips.doc] Page 3 Revised: January 16, 2003 · BREATHING INSIDE YOUR SLEEPING BAG WILL SOAK IT WITH HUMIDITY AND REDUCE THE INSULATING PROPERTIES OF YOUR BAG AND CLOTHING!! It is best to keep your mouth and nose outside of your bag. · INSULATE YOUR BAG FROM THE COLD GROUND. In addition to external ground cloths, it is recommended an additional ground cloth be placed inside your tent. Extra foam pads, newspaper, cardboard or carpet rolls can also help insulate you from “cold spots”. · AIR MATTRESSES ARE GENERALLY LESS EFFECTIVE THAN CLOSED-CELL FOAM PADS. The air inside the mattress will get cold overnight, and your body will work harder trying to warm it. The same is generally true for cots. · DO NOT WEAR THE SAME CLOTHES TO BED THAT YOU WORE DURING THE DAY!! You may not notice it, but these clothes are damp with perspiration. · EXERCISE LIGHTLY BEFORE GOING TO BED. Not enough to perspire, just enough to get the body core warm. · SMALL VENTILATION OPENINGS IN YOUR TENT WILL PREVENT MOISTURE FROM CONDENSING INSIDE YOUR TENT. Consider using the “A” frame tents rather than the dome tents, which are mostly ventilation panels and will “leak” most of the heat your body generates overnight. Consider squeezing an extra body in your tent for the extra heat as well! · AIR OUT YOUR NIGHTCLOTHES AND BAGS DURING THE DAY. Allow these to dry while you are out for the day so they are nice and dry for the next night. Remember to air out and hang up your bags after the weekend too – this will prevent musty mildew and promotes the longevity of the insulating properties of the bag better than when stuffed away for long periods of time. · WARM YOUR CLOTHES INSIDE YOUR BAG IN THE MORNING. Have the clothes you need for the next day handy so you can warm them inside your bag before getting up in the morning. · IF YOU GET COLD IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT AND CANNOT GET WARMED UP, SEEK HELP AT ONCE!! DO NOT WAIT UNTIL THE MORNING – WAKE UP AN ADULT LEADER. ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS · POUR YOUR WATER INTO POTS BEFORE GOING TO SLEEP. It’s a lot easier to put the pot on the stove in the morning than a plastic water jug! · DRINK PLENTY OF WATER THROUGHOUT THE DAY. You may not realize it, but you can quickly dehydrate outdoors during cold weather. Drink 2 quarts of water per day in addition to what you drink at mealtime. Early signs of dehydration include severe headaches; dehydration can also contribute to the onset of hypothermia. DRINK LOTS OF WATER! · IT’S BETTER TO DRINK COOL WATER THAN HOT DRINKS DURING THE DAY! Drinking hot beverages throughout the day raises the body’s core temperature and consequently reduces the tendency of the body to warm itself. Better to drink cool water BSA TROOP 141 - Cold Weather Camping Tips [Cold Weather Camping Tips.doc] Page 4 Revised: January 16, 2003 during the day. By the same token, drinking coffee, tea, hot chocolate or other caffinated beverages reduces the body’s ability to warm itself. · DO NOT WALK ON LAKES, PONDS, RIVERS OR STREAMS! It may look solid, but until it has been checked out assume no ice will hold your weight. · USE THE BUDDY SYSTEM TO CHECK EACH OTHER FOR COLD WEATHER HEALTH ISSUES. Each Patrol Leader should have his patrol regularly checking on the condition of their buddy in the Patrol. DO NOT WAIT – Seek help at once if you suspect someone in your Patrol needs help! · LEARN TO RECOGNIZE AND TREAT COLD WEATHER HEALTH ISSUES, including hypothermia, dehydration, frostbite, snow blindness, carbon monoxide poisoning, etc. · “IF YOUR FEET ARE GETTING COLD, PUT ON A HAT!” Wiggling your toes inside your boots can also help warm the feet. · DON’T FORGET YOUR LIP BALM! · It takes longer to cook in the cold – plan accordingly! · Take and wear sunglasses if snow is in the forecast. · Always gather at least twice as much wood for your fire as you think you’ll need. · Gathering wood or other work helps keep the body warm! · Always have enough wood on hand for the next morning’s fire! · Carry extra matches – the more a fire is needed for warmth, the harder it will be to light one!

THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO BACKPACKING

Backpacking is one of the most enjoyable, awe-inspiring, and fulfilling exercises you will ever embark on. Every year thousands of men and women decide to give up the comforts of their homes to return, for a while, to their primordial roots in the natural architecture; they get away from the neck breaking speed of everyday life, slow down, and treck through a land few now remember. This love of the outdoors, however, could also be destroying our last escape, and our last hope of repentance from the mechanical lives we have built around ourselves. With the call to the outdoors comes a great responsibility: that you must be willing to sacrifice more than just your homes, cell phones and cars; you must be willing to give back some of what you have taken from the world and be willing to leave no trace. Leaving no trace is about more than just protecting the trail: it is about protecting our lives, and the lives of countless others; it is about protecting our past, our history, our earth… our being; it is about protecting this world so that for years to come we may still enjoy a piece of that lost experience that comes no more to us than once in an age-old and neglected existence. Packing is about fun, adventure, excitement and life. It is about love, hope, joy and the knowledge that you are and insignificant part of this majestic universe and the earth will still continue to revolve, even after you are gone from it. This knowledge can not be learned from any book or poem, but must be sought out for oneself, in nature, in love, in old friends, long forgotten, and in life. In traveling the land, traverse your own existence. Let not a day go by, when you don’t think how lucky you are to be in the here and now. Look around you and know that you are a part of the wonder and beauty comprehended uniquely by you. Sit silently under dark forest eves, listen, and more importantly: understand. We live in a world where the joys and sorrows of the land have been forgotten and taken advantage of, but it need not stay that way. I invite you now to learn from me a little of this life, this love of existence, that future generations may also discover the joys and wonders of life on the land. And remember: though this guide may seem long and extraneous, don’t sweat the small stuff. If you’re packing for the first time there’s no need to buy a two-hundred dollar water purification system – in fact, if you don’t mind a little grit, iodine will work just fine on its own in most cases – or to buy the perfect three-hundred dollar backpack. Just get some general purpose, read, “cheap but functional,” equipment from your local packing store, and enjoy yourself. Remember though to buy for where you plan to be, not where you are, you may be new to packing now, but in a year or two you may be hiking the AT, if you plan on packing a lot buy the gear that you will need later. Now get out there, and live! Leif Navigato Greenman Trail near the summit of Mt. Mitchell NC, USA The highest mountain east of the Mississippi (6684 ft) - 5 - The Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Getting Started (And What to Pack) Your first backpacking trip can be a frustrating, and yet, very enjoyable experience. I can not stress enough the planning that must go into a trip before you actually hit the trail. Make sure you know exactly where you are going before you get out there, and more importantly, make sure someone else (a friend or family member) knows exactly where you are going incase of emergency. It is crucial that you know the environment you will be in; will you be hot or cold? How many days will you be out? Will you have cell-service in the remote area you are entering? Knowing the answers to any one of these, may just save your life should you run into trouble in the backcountry. In general this whole paragraph can be summed up in one sentence: “Use your common sense.” The most frustrating part of any trip is the organization. Countless hours can go into trying to find the right gear, the right foods, the right people... Should I pack iodine or a filter pump? Wool or cotton? Matches or a lighter? Fire or water, water or wine. (The answers are both, wool, both and water, in that order). I will try to answer a few of your questions in the following articles, starting off, with a simple checklist. This list is generally on an individual basis and should be used by each camper in a group except where one item will suffice. Food suggestions will be made in a later article. Please note that this is a very general list, and will need to be modified to suit your needs. A Packers Checklist • Water and Food o 2 Liters of Water (At least) o Water Purification �� Iodine (or equivalent) �� A Filtration Pump or Purifier Filtration pumps and purifiers are in fact different. Purifiers are generally better at removing water borne pathogens, but their prices will reflect that. For U.S. waters, filters should be adequate. For Canadian and other waters however, Purifiers are a must have. o Cooking and Eating Equipment �� Large cup and spork for eating �� Cooksets - Pot, Pan, Utensils �� Cook Stove o Food See the detailed article on food below for a list of recommended items. • Backpack o Internal or External-frame backpack made for packing o Rain Cover o Day Pack • Tent and Sleeping o Tent designed for trail use o Footprint, Tarp or other ground cover o Sleeping Bag (rated for your trips conditions) o Sleeping Pad • Clothing See the specialized list below for information on what clothing to pack. • Toiletries o Toilet Paper and Shovel o Toothbrush and Toothpaste Toothpaste should be non-scented to keep the fauna away. o Hand Sanitizer o Biodegradable soap o Insect repellent • Ten Essentials o Map - 6 - Leif Greenman Duct Tape o Compass o Sunglasses and Sunscreen o Extra Food/Water Instead of carrying a whole role of duct tape with you everywhere you go, wrap a length of duct tape around your water bottle or hiking staff several times. This way you don’t add any excess weight and can get to it in a hurry. o Extra Clothing o Headlamp o First Aid o Fire starter and Matches o Signaling Device(s) – Mirror, whistle, cell phone, flare o Knife • Other Important Items o Rope o Extra batteries Whenever possible alkaline batteries should be used as they will last longer. o Several carabiners o Extra water o Photo ID or ID bracelet o Hand saw o Watch o Duct Tape and Repair Kit • Extras o Pencil and notepad o Camera and film The Food Packers Guide Packaged Albacore It may seem like a sacrifice, leaving behind burger joints and between meal snacks, but even the most meager trail meal will seem (and more importantly, taste) like fine dining after a hard day’s hike. Sometimes, choosing the right foods for the trail can be difficult, as many foods are not suitable for backpacking. Trail food should be kept as simple and clean, and most importantly, as nutritional as possible. After a hard days hiking the body has sweated out and used up many of it’s crucial vitamins and minerals and needs to refuel. For this we need several substances which include (but are not limited to) proteins, vitamins, minerals, carbs and starches. Proteins are what make up and perform most of the work in our body, they are complex groups of molecules that, code for and build DNA and contract and expand in muscle fibers among other things, there are many complex proteins that can not be created naturally by the body and thus must be taken in externally, good sources of proteins are meats and peanut butter. Chicken, served in pouches, is a good meat that will last for days on the trail. Also, tuna can be purchased the same way (which is also a valuable source of fish oil). Bagels and other thick breads are good; try to stay clear of foods with an excess of sugar, though carbs should be taken in regularly. Rice is very health (especially if it’s wild rice) and yellow rice holds up nicely on the trail and goes good with any meat. Beans are also a very good source of protein. Also many stores sell instant meals specifically for backpackers. Play with your options. And remember, most food will last through a single day or two, plan your first meal or so to be good ones, take a little bit of food that won’t last and eat it on the first day (a steak after a long days march is mighty fine). It is a common misconception that, since coffee and other highly caffeinated drinks can help you to wake up in the morning they are great on the trail. This, however, is sadly untrue. Caffeine acts as a diuretic, and can actually cause you to quickly become dehydrated. Here is a list of suggested items categorized by meal: Breakfast: • Bagels • Muffins • Grits • Granola • Oatmeal • Eggs • Bacon • Pancakes Lunch/Dinner: • Soups • Tortilla Wraps • Noodles / Pasta • Cheese • Breads • Sandwiches • Raisins • Crackers • Vegetables • Rice • Fruits • Beans • Chicken/Fish • Jerky Desert/Snacks: • Instant Cakes • Cookies • Fruits • Candy Bars • Nuts • S’mores • GORP • Granola Bars • Pudding • Brownies Leif Greenman Dining on the Trail In regards to dining on the trail: you will not need a full array of silverware when in the backcountry, nor a large mess kit. The weight of your pack should be a high priority, therefore, it should be noted that on the eating side of things, all you should have in your bag (besides a few well balanced meals) is a cup, spork, and pot/pan. The cup should be large enough to hold a full meal and will serve as your primary (perhaps not silver) platter. You will eat everything from your cup, from gorp during the day to hot meals at night. When you are done eating, the dirty part begins: cleaning up the dishes. Cleaning on the trail is the part of packing most new backpackers dread above all others (that includes pooping in the woods). To clean your cup you first fill it full of water, use your eating utensil to scrape the sides and bottom clean, swirl it around some until all the little tidbits of food are in the water, pinch your nose, and down it. It’s healthy, full of vitamins and minerals that you otherwise would have thrown out, and lowers the chance of bears and raccoons coming into your campsite late at night to sniff at your cup ( though not significantly). Don’t waste a drop of water, or a bit of food. You’ll need those carbs when you pack up and hit the trail the next day. Make sure you clean your cup out thoroughly and hang it with your food and toiletries. MSR Trail Recipes Now that you know about fine dining on the trail, here are a few recipes for gorp and other delicacies to get you started! Gorp: (Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts) Ingredients • 1 Part M&M’s • 1 Part Mixed Nuts or Raw Peanuts • 1 Part Raisins Directions: Mix ingredients together. Will last forever in an air tight bag. White Gorp: Ingredients • 1 Part Raw Hulled Sunflower Seeds • 1 Part Soy Nuts • 1 Part Almonds • 2 Parts White Seedless Raisins Directions: Mix ingredients together; optionally use salted sunflower seeds for a touch of sodium. Gorp Redefined: (Granola, Oats, Raisins and Peanuts) Ingredients • 2 Parts Granola • 1 Part Dry Oatmeal • 1 Part Mixed Nuts • 1 Part Sunflower Seeds • 1 Part Raisins • 1 Part M&M’s Directions: Mix ingredients together and store in an air tight bag. Raisin Couscous: Ingredients • Couscous • Cinnamon • Sugar • Raisins Directions: Boil water and add raisins and couscous to desired ratio cook the couscous using directions on the package. Toasted Breakfast Bagels: Ingredients • Bagels • Honey • Peanut Butter • Jelly Directions: Heat up a skillet, place a bagel on it and slowly cook. Flip occasionally until golden brown and crispy! Now spread with your favorite toppings, Peanut Butter and honey go great plain, but mix well too. - 10 - Leif Greenman Jerky Sandwich: Ingredients • Bread or Wrap • Mayonnaise • Jerky (Or Pepperoni) • Cheese • Greens Directions: Spread mayo on a wrap or on two slices of bread, put jerky or pepperoni and cheese in the middle. Put some lettuce or spinach on for all those must-have vitamins and minerals. Asparagus: Ingredients • Asparagus Directions: Place asparagus in line in a pan and put over heat. Cook until tender. Use butter or a substitute if you have it. Roasted Acorns: Ingredients • Acorns of any type Directions: Pick up some acorns off the trail, if they are from a White Oak or similar, you may simply roast them slowly over the fire or fry them in a pan, if they are from a Red Oak, Black Oak, or similar, you will need to strain and/or boil them first to remove tannin (to prevent a bitter taste). To tell the type, look at the leaves of the Oak, if they have rounded lobes, then the acorns are fine to eat (probably White Oak). If they have pointy lobes then you will probably want to boil or strain them first to make sure they are not bitter. - 11 - A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Equipment How to Choose a Water Purification System The truth behind all that complicated nonsense. One of the most important items a good hiker carries is a reliable water purification system. It is no longer possible to drink strait from most back country streams in the world today and while it is estimated that North American streams contain less viral content than many other countries, bacteria and protozoa (as well as many other water born pathogens) are still commonly deposited by animal fecal matter and other pollutants. There are primarily three types of water purification system: the filter, the purifier, and chemical based systems such as iodine or chlorine. Iodine is the most commonly used chemical method of destroying the protozoa giardia and many bacteria; however it does not kill cryptosporidia or viruses. Purifiers remove or deactivate most anything and filters simply remove bacteria (but not viruses). Depending on the size of the filters pours, the chemical or electrical agent used, and many other factors, various pumps, chemicals, and purifiers will remove various pathogens. There is no single system to remove every possible hazard. Because of this it is always wise to have a pump or purifier and a chemical agent to treat all water with. Because purifiers catch more they are generally recommended for waters outside of the continental United States, however, because of the price, inside the U.S. filters should be fine in conjunction with Iodine. It should also be noted that boiling water is considered 100% effective against all pathogens, so if you have the fuel to spare, you may wish to do that as well. Some factors to be taken into consideration when purchasing a pump include pump rate (The number of strokes per liter of pure water), core material (carbon, fiberglass, ceramic), output rate (in liters/minute), pump force (the lbs of force required to manipulate the pump) and weather or not it is field cleanable. The filter material should normally be ceramic as it will extend the lifetime of your pump, but all the different filter materials have their pros and cons. Check with your local store specialist for more information. Recommendations: • MSR MiniWorks EX Filter MSR MiniWorks EX Filter Top Image Provided by MSR - 12 - Leif Greenman Backpacks Choosing a Backpack Backpacks come in many shapes and sizes, from internal frame to external frame. Choosing one that is right for you can be difficult, but it doesn’t have to be. In recent years Internal frame backpacks have surged in popularity due to their comfort and even weight distribution and have become the generally accepted standard among hikers. While really it’s all preference, we will concentrate on internal frame backpacks here. Packs should be light, and hold only just as much as you will be bringing along. A pack of the highest quality and lowest weight is a backpacking essential (after all, the recreation was named after them). In a backpack you should look for the following: a famesheet, a good suspension system, top lid, lash points (for carrying equipment) and loading types. Framesheet: The framesheet is a thin piece of plastic or other material that resides between you and the body of your pack. This is a structural mechanism that keeps the weight down and prevents items in your pack from pressing up against your back and forcing your spine to curve. Suspension System: The suspension system on any good bag will consist of a thick, padded, hip belt, padded and contoured shoulder straps, sternum strap and load-lifting straps. This allows the weight of the pack to be evenly distributed over your body to prevent nerve damage and back pain. Top Lid: A (preferably detachable) lid on top of the bag to keep out rain is always a good option. Some even have special pockets on top for quick access items such as first aid and rain-covers. Loading Types: Most backpacks are top-loading, having one large opening at the top into which everything is put. However it can be beneficial to get a pack with zippers that can also load from the side or bottom. This allows easy access to critical items anywhere in the pack. A sleeping bag compartment at the bottom of the pack can save you lots of repacking at the end of the day, and make it easy to get your bag out in a hurry should it start to rain or storm. Packing Packing your pack depends largely on the number of pockets and where they are located. Most packs will have a large central compartment, many small side and front pockets, and possible a large bottom pocket to place a sleeping bag. In general pack the heaviest items, usually the sleeping bag and tent, in the middle between the shoulder blades. This will prevent their weight from pulling you over when climbing up hill. Wrap your sleeping bag, clothing, tent and any other items you don’t want to get wet in trash bags or freezer bags. After you put in your sleeping bag, remove your tent from its bagging and place it in evenly across the bottom of the bag over the sleeping bag to act as a base. Do not stand it upright, lay it out flat on the bottom. Next put in the fuel tank (so that if it spills it does not get on clothing or food). Then put in your cloths (in a trash bag) and then food, and then, on top, drape your poncho over all and tuck it in the sides. Personal items and toiletries should go in one of the side or front pockets if you have them. Bedrolls and long tent poles are strapped to the back of the backpack, vertically on an internal frame and horizontally above the shoulders on an external frame. First Aid should be in an area that provides easy access, such as a side pocket. Always put a few safety pins somewhere, perhaps on an extra strap, and make sure to carry duct tape with you. Most packers will wrap duct tape around their water bottles so that they do not have to carry a whole role. If you are going with a group, make sure to have a packing party a week or two before your trip so that you know exactly what everyone has, and what everyone has forgotten. We recommend that you read through many more resources before making your selection as we have not gone into great detail. REI has many great articles on the subject. - 13 - A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Creating Your Own Rain Cover Materials: • Duct Tape • Trash Bags • Scissors All packs should have a rain cover, just as all tents should have a rain fly. But equipment can be costly and not all packs have a custom fitting rain cover. No worries though, you can build a rain cover tailored to your own pack with minimal effort and cost. And all you need are trash bags, and duct tape. First place a trash bag over your (fully packed) backpack and cut out just around the shoulder straps. Now take the rain cover off your bag, place it on a flat surface and fold a strip of tape in half so that it attaches to either side of the bag around where you made the cut (to reinforce it so that it does not tear). After the cut edge is reinforced, you’re ready to go! Just slide it over your bag if it starts to rain. Try and be creative, you can also create a separate bag for your top lid so that you can still open your pack with the rain cover on! - 14 - Leif Greenman The Proper Tent Another of the packer’s most important items is the tent. There is no greater joy than, eating a nice hot meal and then crawling into a snug, warm tent at the end of a long day of packing. A tent should be your sanctuary, a place of comfort. It should be big enough so that you, and anyone with you, can fit in easily, with room to spare for bags and shoes (lest it should storm) but light enough so that, once split between you, will weigh no more than about two, to two and a half, liters of water (if not less). Tents generally come in self-supporting (freestanding) and non-freestanding models and are categorized as three season or four season. If you plan on hiking at all in the winter or late fall, you will need a four season, though they are often a little heavier than three season or adjustable models (mainly because they have more poles and a thicker material). Also, a footprint should be placed under the tent to prevent excessive wear and tear (though a tarp tucked in at the edges will do just fine). If you use a tarp instead of a fitted footprint, make sure you tuck it under; otherwise it will simply wash rain under your tent. Deciding on a tent is normally not a difficult process. If you are in need of a good one man or a small two man tent I highly recommend the three-season REI Quarter Dome UL (Pictured below without rain fly). Many packers have started to move away from traditional tents in favor of lighter tarp tents or hammocks which take up less pack room, and are much lighter than even the lightest three season tents. However, you should check local conditions first before using such methods. REI Quarter Dome UL - 15 - A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Clothing The right clothing is very important on the trail; I would have frozen countless times had I not been carrying a spare jacket or an extra pair of socks. It is important to make sure that your cloths are of the right material before you hit the trail; no denim (jeans) or cotton should EVER be taken out into a wet environment (Backpacking, Kayaking, etc.) because they will stubbornly refuse to dry for days on end. It is best to take wool, fleece, polyester or a synthetic material. Below is a simple checklist of cloths. This list, obviously, should be adjusted for summer or warm-climate hiking. • Long/short pants • Long/short shirt • Warm (fleece) pants • Jacket • Warm vest and/or sweater • Under Armor and/or long underwear • Supportive underwear for men and supportive bra for women • Several pairs of thick wool socks • Hat • Gloves • Boots (and please – make sure they’re waterproof) • Camp shoes (Flip-flops or slippers) • Poncho • Swimsuit (just in case) Also, remember to pack as much of everything as you need, you will probably want several layers in the mountains (even during the summer in some locations). It is always a good idea to sacrifice a little pack space (and gain a little extra weight) to make sure you have the proper amount of clothing. Your clothing can also serve you in other ways, becoming a pillow to save weight or a bandage in a tight spot. Make sure you have enough extra clothing to keep you warm in colder climates and to replace other clothing if there is an emergency. - 16 - Leif Greenman Navigation You are, at some point, going to be lost. Let’s face it, you will stray off the trail, fall off a cliff, or realize you took the wrong fork ten miles back. When this happens, it’s always a good idea to be able to find your way again. Fortunately, this is quite easy once you get the hang of it using simply a map, and a compass (or, if you swing that way, a GPS receiver). The next few articles will teach you how to read a topo map and an orienteering compass so that when disaster strikes you are sure to be prepared. Blazes and Signs The simplest method for on-trail navigation is to know how to read the signs and blazes on marked trails. Most trails have some form of blaze, a small piece of plastic or a square of paint on trees or rocks spaced at even intervals along the trail and at odd bends or turns to signal the correct direction. The simplest blazes are merely sprays of paint on trees and rocks, some trails however may have shapes or images, for instance the Appalachian Trail is blazed with simple white blazes for most of its length while the Goat Trail is blazed with goat shaped metal cutouts. The diamond blaze on the right was taken from the Bartram Trail in North Eastern Georgia which is yellow blazed throughout. Many trails also have signs like the one on the left at trail heads and crossings to signal exactly what activities are, and are not, allowed on the trail and how difficult it is. As you can see, the Bartram Trail is for hiking only (though it was left off of this particular sign, no ATV’s are allowed either) and is moderately difficult. How to Read Topo Maps Though many kinds of maps exist, the preferred map for backpacking is the Topographic map (shortened to “topo”) also called a contour map. These maps utilize contour lines and sometimes shaded relief’s to show elevation and pay great attention to large scale detail and both natural and man-made features. The contour lines on a topo map connect points of like elevation so that every point on the figure formed by that line will have the same elevation. Some of the lines will be marked with their elevation and at some point on the scale will be a number that indicates the elevation change between each contour line. The closer each line is to each other the steeper the grade while the further away they are the more gradual the slope. Overlapping lines indicate a sudden change in elevation such as a cliff or overhang. Most topo maps are standardized and thus do not include a legend or key. Generally, trails are marked with a double dashed line (‘=====’) and rivers with a thin solid (often blue) line. Roads are often marked as thicker solid lines however, this varies by map. See the legend on your topo for correct readings. The scale on the bottom of the map will look something like the image on the right and will often have an extended scale that shows meters or feet for more precise readings. Some maps will also have the scale expressed as a fraction such as “1:63360” or “1 / 25000” meaning that the map is scaled down to 1 / 63360 or 1 / 25000 of the actual size. Meaning that one unit of measure on the map is equal to 25,000 units of measure on real terrain. To read the scale pictured find the two points that you wish to know the distance between (or for curved lines measure and add the distance of each strait part of the trail) and take that distance and compare it to the scale. If we measured the scale above and it was about five centimeters then every five centimeters on the map would translate into three miles of real terrain. Just practice a bit and you’ll quickly get the hang of it. Miles Sign on the Bartram Trail: Trailhead signs detail trail regulations and difficulty. - 17 - A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Example of a Topographical Map Taken from the public domain USGS DRG file o44072d6.tif for the Stowe, VT quadrangle - 18 - Leif Greenman Using Your Compass About Compasses If you are packing, you most likely have an orienteering or, map, compass, also called a protractor compass or a baseplate compass. The orienteering compass was invented by the Kjellstrom brothers and Gunnar Tillander in Sweden during the early 1930’s. It consists of a liquid filled housing which contains the needle; the housing has the ability to rotate over its base which functions as a protractor. This made it as easy as setting the compass down on a map to record or take bearings rather than having to translate back and forth using a separate protractor. Bearings (or your desired direction) are taken in increments called degrees, minutes (or minutes of arc or minutes of angle or arcminutes) and seconds (or seconds of arc or seconds of angle or arcseconds). Just like minutes and seconds of time a minute is 1/60th of a degree and a second is 1/60th of a minute. This means that 1 minute is equal to 60 seconds and 1 degree is equal to 60 minutes making 1 degree equal to 3,600 seconds. Sound confusing? Don’t worry, it’s not when you get right down to it. Now look on your map that you will be working with, on this map (probably in one of the corners) is a small symbol called a compass rose or a wind rose. It may be hard to spot but will look something like the image at the end of this article. The compass rose will generally consist of two concentric circles (or sometimes just a single line depending on the detail and technicality of the map you are working with), one of which will be labeled “true” or “true north” and depicts true cardinal directions while the other ring will be labeled “magnetic” or “magnetic north” and depicts magnetic cardinal directions. True north may also be denoted with a star (for the North Star). The difference between the two north’s is called “magnetic declination” (or quite simply, declination where the context is understood). This difference arises because of the difference in earth’s actual poles and the magnetic flux created by the earth’s rotation around those poles. True north is the point of the north pole on a Meridian of Longitude, a “strait” line (read, circle), that passes through both the north and south poles whereas magnetic north is the direction of earth’s northern magnetic flux relative to the observer. This means that magnetic north is ever changing; this change is normally marked on the compass rose as the “annual decrease”. This deviation is normally nominal and does not pose a problem for hikers unless in areas of extreme magnetic declination variance (over 20 degrees). Finding a Bearing Now that you know what a compass rose is and have found it on your map, place your map-compass over the compass rose and align the arrow on the top of the compass (your heading arrow) with true north. Next rotate the compass housing so that north on the compass is facing the same direction of the needle (magnetic north). Normally north on the rotating compass housing will be marked with two lines or a small box which you can align the needle with (see the large red arrow outline on the compass base in the image on the right). The direction that is facing the same way you are is your current bearing. In the case of the image on the right, the compass housing needs to be rotated to the right to align it with the needle, once that is done the bearing will be easily read as 320 degrees. Now let’s align the map to find a “true bearing” or “map bearing.” This is a bearing taken in relation to true north rather than magnetic north. Triangulation Now we will learn to triangulate our position on the map. Triangulation is the act of finding your location based on the heading to recognizable landmarks (well, in a nutshell). - 19 - Finding the magnetic direction (“D” marks the local magnetic declination since the compass rose is not visible) A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking To do this we must first find some landmarks that are visible on and off the map (nearby mountains work well). Find your first landmark and take a bearing, using your compass draw a strait line on the map that passes through the landmark you can see (note that the map must be aligned to do this so that the heading is accurate). We now know that your location is somewhere on this line. Do you see where we are going now? Find a second landmark and draw another line, then find a third and draw another line. Where the three lines intersect is your current position. You can use as many lines as you want to verify your position. This is the same method GPS receivers use to display your position except that the GPS receiver is receiving the position of at least four satellites and triangulating in three dimensions. Plotting a Heading Finally we will learn to plot a heading. Place your compass on your map along the heading you wish to follow (perhaps to one of those landmarks). Now align your compass housing so that the north line is inline with the needle. Next follow the heading arrow, as long as you keep the compass needle inline with the north mark on the compass housing, you will be following your heading. Finding the direction to a landmark - 20 - Leif Greenman Compass Rose This image is public domain because it contains material from the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. - 21 - A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Camping One of backpacking's most distinguishing features is, of course, primitive camping. Unlike many outdoor activities backpacking requires camps to be very rustic as it is hard to carry much more than the bare necessities on ones back. Choosing a good camping spot is not very difficult, but setting up camp can be a long and tedious process. It is good to reach the pre-determined campsite several hours before dark to give yourself time to set up tent, cook, eat, hang food and purify water. Below are detailed several common camp tasks including setting up the tent, pooping in the woods, building fires and bear bagging. Setting up Camp You have toiled all day, walked and ploughed through rain and sunshine, and now it’s beginning to get dark. You come to a good campsite just a few hours before the sun goes down; make sure you have all the required camping permits and sit down to pitch the tent. Here are a few tips to help make your camping experience a great one: • Choose a flat spot for your tent and clear away any small debris before laying the ground cloth. • If the only spot available is not level then place your head uphill. • If it is windy and there is no buffer try to set the low end of your tent into the wind so that the air passes over it, not into it. The same goes for tarps hung around cooking areas, shelters, etc. • If the night is warm and breezy and insects are a problem try to aim your door towards the breeze. • Also, to help everyone wake up at roughly the same time, aim the door or window of your tent towards the rising sun. This ensures you wake early for a quick, fresh start. Natures Call: A Fecal Matter Or: “How to Take a Dump in the Woods” Alright, we’ve made it this far, now comes the part that’s just plain uncomfortable for most people: pooping in the woods. If there is one thing new campers miss most after leaving the world of modern conveniences it must be toilets. The idea is simple: dig a hole, do what you have to do, bury it, and your done (or if you have a group, you can dig a large community poop pit and have each member just sprinkle some dirt after they finish up, then cover the whole thing up when you’re ready to break camp). Sound easy? Yah, you’re right, it is. While there have been entire books written on the subject there isn’t a lot of ground to cover. Make sure your spot is away and downhill from rivers, streams and standing water and nowhere near your campsite. Dig a hole that is, at the very least, six inches deep (if not deeper) and just as wide. Bury your toilet paper or leaves with it (though some sources will tell you to pack TP out with you I don’t find that necessary unless local law prohibits its burial) and make sure it is fully covered. That’s it. Many people will not bury their leavings arguing that bears and deer don’t either and that as long as they do it far enough off the trail no one will step in it before it decomposes, however, the issue with this is not people stepping in it, but rain and wind washing it into fresh water sources. When buried properly the chances of this are far less likely. On some parts of the trail you may find privy’s set up for public use. Remember: whenever using a public privy only release solid matter, urine causes the solid waste to decompose slower. When you are done, always do the next hiker a service by throwing in a handful of woodchips or pine straw to reduce smell and aid in decomposition. When traveling with or leading a group of children many times they will stubbornly refuse to poop in a hole. This can be problematic when they finally go in other places they are not supposed to. To encourage kids to go on the trail, designate a poop crew. Kids love it and I’ve discovered that by having a new crew at each camp site go out and dig a community poop pit they can have fun trying to make it as creative and ‘easy’ as possible (I always do). Turn it into a contest; even take a picture of it when they are done. I’ve seen kids stack rocks into a perfect seat for the person using the toilet and construct toilet paper roll holders out of conveniently placed tree branches or twigs. This can really make younger (or older) kids enjoy going in the woods and save you from a lot of dirty cleanup jobs. Just make sure to disassemble when you are done and return the woods to the woods. - 22 - Leif Greenman Building a Fire Fire is one of the greatest comforts of the trail, nothing beats sitting outside around a cozy fire telling tall tales, singing, cooking dinner… However, building a good fire and getting the most out of it can be difficult, especially if the only available wood is wet. Here are a few tips to get you started: • First of all, choose a good spot. The spot you pick for your fire should be in an existing fire pit, sand, gravel or bare ground. Don’t start a fire near shrubbery or ground-cover, over flat stones (they scorch and break) or peat ground, or near dry grass. Corn Chips • Place a ring of large stones around your fire to control it. Corn oil, surprisingly enough, burns quite well. Try holding a tortilla chip over your fire but out of the flames. At a certain heat it will combust, giving off a lot of energy and bright yellow flames for just long enough to dry wet wood, and start your fire! • Don’t cut any live wood, pick up dead wood off the forest floor. Live wood or semi-dead wood will still be full of water and won’t burn well. Also in designated wilderness areas and some other parks, cutting live wood is illegal. • Use only dry wood to avoid wasting fuel or matches. You will be able to at least find some smaller dry sticks even if it is raining. • If it is wet, there are a number of techniques you can use to start your fire. Inside some old stems and pine trunks, you can find a sticky yellow-red strong smelling goo called pitch. Pitchy wood is very flammable and will dry other wood and light it very quickly. • Don’t use leaves on your fire, use just enough leaves to get the fire started, then no more, leaves burn very well, but only for just a second, this is good to dry wet wood, but to many of them will create a lot of ash and choke your fire. • Start out with smaller sticks on the bottom of your fire, once they are lit, put on medium sized sticks and once they go up, put on a log or two. Building up your fire like this will allow wood to dry and catch easier. • Laying your fire in a teepee style (by standing wood on its end) will make for a quick burning blaze. Crisscrossing fire (Lincoln-log) will give you a longer burning fire. Think about how long you will be out before you build your fire and build it for the time period you will be sitting at it. • When you extinguish your fire, use water, not sand. Sand will halt the fire, but burning embers will still smolder away in the ash, if a wind picks up, they can easily be ignited and get out of hand. Make sure you stir up the ashes and douse all of them. After dousing, don’t scatter the ashes; bury them in moist sand or soil. • After you are done, return the ground as nearly as possible to the way it was when you found it. • In the summer and spring, especially during dry years, some areas will have fire banns. Pay attention to local laws and restrictions and read all signs on the trail. Matches If you don’t want to spend money on waterproof matches you can make your own! Simply dunk strike anywhere match heads in hot wax from a candle. To use, just scrape off the wax with your finger nail and light! Fire Ring near Earls Ford Road - 23 - A Beginner’s Guide To Backpacking Easy Bear Bagging Vermin Bear bagging can be almost as much of a pain as the bears. Hanging your food and toiletries out on the end of a limb in a duffle bag, high in the air, is near impossible for the un-experienced bagger. Even in areas with little to no bear population bear bagging can be a necessity since many animals such as rats and raccoons will do just about anything to get at human food. To bag first make sure your knot is secure on your bag of food and that the tree limb you have chosen (far from the trunk of the tree) is strong enough to hold your food but not a bear. Now, on the other end of your rope tie a Nalgene (use only Lexan, normal plastic will break) or a large rock. The trick is to throw the Nalgene over the limb and then you can grab it and hoist the bag up. To throw, crouch with your back to the tree you have chosen and hold the water bottle under your legs, now, fling your whole body upwards as you stand and throw backwards over your head. This way you can put your entire body strength into it and bag in the highest trees, much higher than a bear could climb without breaking the trunk or limb. Always remember: a bear bag should be at least 12 feet high and at least 10 feet from any vertical support. Bears are very smart; they will sometimes even pull down bags by cutting the rope where it ties into the tree. To prevent this, you can pull one bag up and then tie the free end of rope to a second bag of food to use as a counterbalance. Now, using a long stick, hoist the bags up to equal level on the tree. To get them down again, simply hook them with a long stick and pull. This counterbalancing method is the most commonly used method among hikers in bear territory. Not all animals that want to get into your food are as large as a bear; in fact, even worse than bears are rodents. Luckily, by simply placing a metal can midway down the rope to your food bag, you can ensure that these pests can’t climb down to your precio View from the Blue Ridge Parkway, NC - 24 - Leif Greenman Conclusion While camping can be fun, it is also a risk, but what is life without a few risks? Enjoy your camping experience but play it safe too. Don’t do anything stupid, always pick up after yourself and respect the woods and their inhabitants. If you do, they will probably respect you as well; and I can’t stress enough, don’t sweat the small stuff. This publication tries to help you pick the right stove or pump but if you’re a one-time hiker don’t waste money on good equipment. Just buy what you need (or what you predict that you will need in the future). Ask for advice from your local sporting goods or outdoor store, the attendant there should be able to help you pick out something for your exact needs. The natural world is just waiting out there for you to explore, every niche and cranny will be full of new dangers and new beauties. As Cat Stevens said, “It’s a Wild World.” Go out there, and live! About the Author As a recreational backpacker I get out on the trail every chance I get which is never enough for my liking. I have done many miles of trail including parts of the AT, the Bartram Trail and Mt. Mitchell North Carolina, the highest mountain east of the Mississippi. I am planning to hike the AT in its entirety in a few years and I hope that all my planning and preparation comes to fruit. I am the owner of a small website, GreenMan Games, with varied content spread out over the genres of Poetry and Writing, to Software and Programming, to Hiking and Camping and much more. I hope you’ll visit me at http://www.greenmangames.vze.com! If you find any typos or errors in this publication, or if you would just like to ask a few questions or recommend a product, etc. visit the contact page of my site or email me at leif902@gmail.com. Thank you and have a nice trip, - Leif Greenman Owner and Proprietor GreenMan Games Disclaimer I am in no way associated with any of the companies or websites (barring GreenMan Games) I reference in this publication: their views do not always reflect my own and visa versa.